Jaco, Costa Rica
So I went out into the green water today for the first time. It was so difficult to get out, but once I was out it was so relaxed and chilled. I just need to practice surfing on the face of a wave rather than when it has already crashed (white water). It was going really well until I got up on a wave and then I couldn't get back out again. I ended up being stuck under the water for quite a while, which shook me up majorly. I ended up like pretty much having a pan...