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The wake up was at 5:45 pm at the Victoria Chau Doc Luxury Hotel room 225. We arrived late after the early birds, Alan, Fran, Janet,and Sally. Today was scheduled as a major traveling day, as we were programmed to spend most of it on the water, fortunately in a boat. So we broke up from breakfast to pack up for the trip to Phnom Penh, which included finding room for Helen's green paisley sandals and Vietnamese cone hat.
Janet was in her typically prime shape though a bit stressed about a large roll of something. Fran was elated over her rejuvenated shoes freed of the green slime from the day before and grateful to Alan who, from pure love, agreed to pack her shoes in his suitcase. Judy, Sally, and Stacy were in fine form, undoubtedly celebrating their sister freedom. Helen was in much better shape than the day before, healing well after her injury from the motorcycle collision. Also, I am happy to report that the German tourist she ran into is well.
,We boarded the Hang Chau speedboat for our six-hour ride on the Mekong River to Phnom Penh, and the journey went smoothly. Visions along the river edge were filled with infinite varieties of human, animal, and floral life. The only person able to adequately describe the human industry in the form of boat works, fishing, transport, agricultural endeavors would be the master of river writing, Mark Twain. It's hard to believe that his description of the Mississippi could be anything near what he might have written on the Mekong.
We reached the Cambodian border in two hours, hung out for more time than necessary, changed Vietnamese cash for American--one handful of dong ended up as $3 US and change in riel. We finally reached Phnom Penh and were met by our capable guide, Sareth. Our initial duty was to have our first Cambodian meal. The restaurant was a real charmer filled with Cambodian regalia. Although the lunch was a pleasant introduction the local cuisine, the most excitement was produced from an apsara dancer. This form of dance is not characterized quickly formed and performed saltation, but by deliberately and slowly performed sculptural displays of near impossible geometries of finger, wrist, ankle, foot, arm, and leg.
With lunch complete Sareth guided us to the Royal Palace complex, home to the royal family. Though the king was in, we couldn't fit a visit into our tight schedule. However, we did see his house, the throne hall, and the silver pagoda. The silver pagoda is famous for its floor made up of 5000 silver tiles each weighing one kilo. The spectacle was impressive but much of the floor was protected by carpet, and a number of the tiles were sealed to the floor with duct tape. What a marvel, the tiles, not the duct tape. Sareth did a superb job explaining the many eccentricities and spiritual foundation of all the great temples and architectures. I regret not spending much time on all of this and must defer to a lesson from Woody Allen. Woody has recalled taking an Evelyn Woods speed reading course and then reading Tolstoy's 1000-page War and Peace in 45 minutes. He reported that "War and Peace is about Russia." Like Woody, I must report the long afternoon lecture was about Buddha. Sorry!
It was a fine afternoon with activities that could fatigue the best-trained athlete. We later reached our lodgings for the night, The Governor's House, a very well-wooded old house with a desk clerk that I would like to capture in a bottle. I could let him out when I make a movie some day about an absolutely crazy desk clerk. He was a close proximity of the wedding planner, Martin Short, in Father of the Bride. But Martin Short was dull compared to Pilote, a childhood name he preferred to be called. Unfortunately, all the women thought he was just creepy.
Anyway, we did have a very nice dinner at the Khmer Sirin restaurant and returned to The Governor's House by a vehicle--called a tuk-tuk--powered by a motorbike with a two-wheeled surrey attached to the seat. Yes, it had a fringe on the top.
- comments
Richard H. These blog entries are terrific - they help me be there in spirit. Hope there are photos of some of you in the tuk-tuks.