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Hi Everyone,
You may recall that I was on a river boat with my friends Kerstin and Toni, visiting the area of Laos known as 4000 Islands, having visited the waterfall of Li Phi, we got back on the boat and crossed the Mekong again to visit Khone Phapheng falls, we backtracked to a point on the east side of the river where we were to be picked up by a mini van. We negotiated more of the Islands before entering a more open part of the river and then mooring up at a very scruffy location which appeared to be more of a trading port than a village. I guess this acts as a service area to the Islands and particuarly Don Kon due to the amount of people visiting. Once more on a mini van we drove down one of the dustiest roads I have yet encountered to a point only 10K from the Cambodian border before we turned right towards the falls area. We headed for Khonne Phapheng which was indeed impressive. It is little wonder the Mekong runs so fast when you see this fall, the water plunges 15 meters into a wide gorge from which you would have little chance of survival. I walked across the rocks and got as close as I dare but the water was surging fiercly, approximately 8 feet up the sides ot the gorge before receding with frightening power. The problem was that 'surges' were irregular so unlike a wave coming ashore you could not tell where the next swell was coming from or how far it would come up, it just happened. There were a lot of notices warning of the 'Danger' so I guess that a few people at least had been caught out in the past. I sat trying to get 'that' picture and trying not to fall in when fate smiled on me. From the river banks decended a group of Monks clad in saffron robes and accompanied by some very 'Official' looking photographers. I went over and asked if I could take a picture as well. The Priest in question motioned to the Official photographer that it would be alright and I took the picture you will have seen on the previous Blog to this one. As you can see, he never actually looked at me at all and never spoke to me, everything was done by the wave of a hand and through 'his' photographer, I found it quite interesting and actually a little unnerving as I was trying to get him to look at the camera but thought better of asking him! I felt as if I was intruding on some rare public display to which only the chosen few were invited to participate but I did get the photo and nothing has happened to me - yet, so I guess Buddha was presumably not too displeased with my being there!
I scrambled back up the bank to the path and joined the others, you are left with the impression that the Tourist Industry needs a marketing department. For example, the information board setting out the geography of this waterfall is dull and faded and really doesn't give any information at all. There are numerous places to eat and walk but precious little information, whether in Thai (spoken in Laos as well), Laotion, French or English as to where to go, what to do, how the area was formed, what effect the Falls have on the local people etc. I realise that Laos is only just waking up to Tourism but the tide has turned and as old Kanute discovered there is no holding back.
Having said that I would not like to see the area developed further than it is, it just needs a bit of an overhaul and a bit of direction and focus on what they are trying to sell. This is a developing Country with a lot to offer, when you see the number of cottages, stilted huts and bungalows along the river, you realise that the area is already well and truely on the tourist map. I hope it does not turn into a 'resort' like Phuket has and has changed out of all recognition in the past 25 years.
The journey back to Muang Khong was a bit slower as we were heading upstream against the flow of water, however, this had its benefits as we hugged the right hand side bank and were treated to the sight of Mothers washing the kids, groups of children playing in the water many waving enthusiastically to the passing Farang. We had a ringside seat and a view into the world of living next to and off the Mekong River, a lifestyle which for many of these families will not have changed for generations and may not change for generations to come. It is an alien world to us and which may seem idyllic on the one hand but I suspect would be too difficult to cope with for most Westerners on the other hand.
This River facinates me, it changes so quickly and so frequently, there is always something different going on whether it be fishermen with their nets, families trying to make ends meet, rapids, rocks, Islands, swirling waters, concrete depth markers or smooth seemingly calm open expanses of serenity, The Mekong has a tangible charm about it, it is life giving and life taking, awesome at times majestic at others. One thing is without doubt, it is one of the Worlds great rivers and I have seen it through this Country.
We arrived back at 'Le Resort Phoumey' just after sun down, a moment that provided yet another sunset photograph! The talk around the dinner table was all about what a wonderful day we had just experienced and what we were going to do the next day. Cycling was on the cards, I related my past encounters with Asain bikes and Kerstin commented that I was not a sportsman, well maybe once, but I prefer a bike I can cycle and not have to eat my knees every time you make a revelution of the pedals! Anyway this little adventure had a funny outcome which I will tell you about next time.
Take care for now
Chris
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