Hi Matt and Nat,

I was looking at your sight, and saw your message board. When checking Caitlin's e-mail for her, I saw a message from Nat. Her computers down, so she's been using mine to read e-mail. .She was induced this morning, and things are moving rather slowly. She's only 4cm and she had the epidual. Those can sometimes slow the process down. One nurse also thinks the baby may be posterior, which also has a different effect. So hopefully there will be a baby sooner than later. She's groggy and in good spirits, just very tired. I'll e-mail as soon as I get back after the baby's born.

Have fun and watch out. Your poor mom, Nat.

OK. You knew the palm-sized spider reference was going to get a response from me. I was kind of OK with the repelling. I didn't say anything about disturbing the spirits if the dead. I even refrained from comment on illegally crossing borders....but PALM-SIZED SPIDERS????? Matt, you and Natalie better get things under control because with those critters/animals there, I can't come and save you. PLEASE - try to be more careful. I'm going to have nightmares for the next week now. When are you coming home? And you're not allowed to lead your siblings into such peril next week when you all meet up in Costa Rica. Love, Sleepless Mom in Indy.

riday, April 21st --Guatamala . . . "The Case of the Incan Mummies"

Before Matt goes into his eloquent story (that everyone knows is not my writing), I just want to say that we flew to Belize on April 12th and arrived in Guatemala on Wed., April 19. This past week has producedd a lot more stories, to be posted at a later date. First we want everyone first to read one of our most interesting (yet out-dated) accounts from Peru. Matt left out some imortant details that I added at the end. -Natalie

A few entries back we promised an update involving "dinosaurs and dead bodies" so here goes . . .

Straddling the wild borders of Peru & Bolivia, sits the highest navigable lake in the world -- Lake Titicaca -- home to a decreasing population of nomadic people. These former farmers -- succumbing to the relentless pressures of hostile neighbors, land scarcity and dreams of a "better life" -- took to Lago Titicaca like a fish to water -- literally.

Vast sections of this pristine lake are covered with swaying forests of fresh-water reeds -- the bottom portion fleshy and edible, the top durable and buoyant -- collectively, the perfect staple for a self-sufficient aquatic culture. These plants represent food (eaten for breakfast lunch and dinner with the occasional water fowl or fish), shelter (from island to furniture to shelter), transportation (boats and paddles) and likely for personal hygiene (ouch).

The "floating islands" are for many, a "must see" on any
Peruvian/Bolivian travel itinerary -- so after our 4-day trek to Machu Picchu we opted to test our sea legs and spend a few days afloat.Unfortunately, the "floating islands" were discovered by tourists 25 years ago and the mere presence of outsiders has started the inevitable erosion of their hydro-culture. As direct Incan descendants, watches adorn wrists that once worshipped the sun while
eager eyes count the minutes until the next tourist boat arrives -- its passengers intent on swarming their floating souvenir stands. Interesting still? Of course! -- anyone that chooses to subside on bland reed root while sleeping on a damp-at-best floating mass of decaying plant matter should have their picture next to "interesting" in the dictionary -- however, the authenticity of our "surprise visit" was debatable. Luckily, the travel Gods were on
our side as they unleashed a downpour of authenticity in the form of Amantani -- a surprisingly permanent island near the center of Lake Titicaca. This is where it gets good. . .

Unlike most visitors who arrive late afternoon one day and leave very early the next, we opted to stay two nights on Amantani -- an island with nearly 5,000 inhabitants spread across 9 villages, most of whom have never left the island. Isolated seems to be the best word to describe our gracious hosts -- Wilma & Walter and their infant children, Jefferson and Lucy. Sidenote: Yes, we did find it odd that direct Incan descendants held American names (and legally), however, we soon found that they also had unpronouncable Quetchuen names, their first language. So, after a night of hiking pre-Incan ruins, dancing with locals while dressed in traditional wool garb and eating traditional meals by firelight on a mud floor of their Yoda-style kitchen (you do remember Yoda's house/kitchen in Empire Strikes Back, right?), we decided to hit the hay (literally -- our beds/pillows were stuffed with hay).

The next morning, with all of our fellow tourists moving on to the next island, we had all of Amantani to ourselves and decided to hike around the shoreline before lunch. Before long we came to one of many stops that morning, an incan throne carved from a huge boulder on the shores of Lake Titicaca, and stopped for a few pictures and conversation with a local man and his son. Fascinated by the incan treasure beneath us (yes, we had a seat on the throne) and ever the aspiring archaelogists, we implored the local about other "undiscovered by tourists" sites on the island. Sure enough, he dazzled us with stories of a hidden Incan cave strewn with mummies; soon thereafter he tempted us with a cheap, day-long horse-back trek to visit his long-dead ancestors -- an offer we could not refuse. So off we went in search of the Incan mummies.

4 hours straight up the dormant volcano we rode, across 7 villages and countless boulder-strewn paths -- the trail to the cave had long been overgrown (lost is a better word). In fact, we were the first tourists (and aspiring archaelogists) to visit the site in 3 decades so we gave our guides a break as they searched for the sacred cave. Finally, we came to rest just under a cliff 20 yards up from the so-called trail -- "mummies, up" our guide murmured -- so up we went. Our guides stayed below as they were scared of disturbing the spirits of the dead -- I, for one, couldn't climb fast enough. Climbing over a small, ancient wall we immediately stepped among -- and on -- the long since departed. Human bones were strewn about the small cave -- skulls, femurs, spines -- all interspersed with offerings from local villagers praying for the sick and dying. One particularly haunting skull had what looked like a bullet hole just behind the right temple -- were these people buried here ceremoniously or were we centuries-late to a pre-Incan murder scene? Our discovery prompted the same question to many different villagers -- all of whom gave a different answer. Our guide told us the site is pre-Incan, and has long been both sacred and protected from outsiders. Our host, Wilma, relayed stories of a family who lost their bearings during a storm and died of exposure in the wind-blown cave. Another local was sure that the bodies were those of Peruvian soldiers killed by Chileans during one of the many conflicts between the two countries. Yet another village elder informed us that it was Incan custom to remove the brain and other organs for the mummification process -- which would explain the mysterious hole in the head.

Whichever hypothesis proves correct someday, sitting in a cave high above Lake Titicaca -- surrounded by human bones -- was haunting. And we'll always wonder which local villager spoke the real truth about those "mummies" high in a cave on Amanatani. For you forensic scientists (or those that just watch CSI religiously), check out the pictures and see if you can crack the "Case of the Incan Mummies" . . .

M & N
What Matt forgot to mention was that this island did not have any electricity, nor could most of the locals afford batteries for flash lights. Needless to say, we felt like we were living in the 18th century when we went to bed with candles to light the room and a bed pan next to our bed in case of a night time emergency. Also, our Spanish conversations with our hosts revealed that their knowledge of the world was also a little pre-historic. When we told them that we were from LA, where they make movies, they were very curious. They had seen few movies in their lifetimes, and wondered whether the one where dinasours attacked New York was reality. They were worried that one day dinasours may attack their island. No Joke!

We will try to keep our stories more up-to-date from now on! Stay tuned for our Belize adventure.
- Natalie

Perdón, la comisaría es Nº 42. Besos, los quiero.

Hoa chicos, como estan?, por donde andan?les cuento que el día 25 de abril festeje mi cumpleaños con mi familia y amigos, faltaban ustedes, aunque siempre estan presentes en mi corazón. Eduardo está trabajando en la comisaría 32, le gusta mucho; bueno los exrañamos mucho, los queremos. Besos.

Matt and Nat - we are finally all sitting in the same room together and thought we would post a message... Matt, this one's for you from big Derry - Because U Deserve What Every Individual Should Enjoy Regularly. It was so nice to see you both and can't wait until we can sit down and have some good times again. Happy Trails!

EDUARDO Y DANIELA- ¿Como estàn ustedes? Los extrañamos mucho.. Probablamente, vamas a volver a San Rafael en enero. Este viaje està creciendo! Es posible que mi famalia vayan a visitar Argentina en enero tambièn! Vamos a divertirnos mucho. Hasta Luego - Mateo y Natalia

...Happened to be running on the strand for the first time in a long while and saw the birthday volleyball bash at 8th street .....Smackfest is July 29(; Just thought I'd tempt ya(;

Matty,
We missed you last weekend. Mark & Victoria were in and your name came up all night. Aly and Matt, Mark & Vicktoria, Me and Nance & Joe. Smelly Farty Boy not part of the game plan. We ate, we drank and we laughed. You and Natalie were missed. Nancy and I even took the (the "I'm moving far away and I need a car for a couple of weeks) VW in both Mark and your honor. Hope you're both doing well........ Ron

Big Papi for 4 more years!!!

Sorry I missed your call Nat -- call me if u are still around. love wales

Nat, I just came back from DC! Weren't the cherry blossoms gorgeous? We could have met up. =( Anyways, glad to hear that you guys are having fun!

Alice