This is my last night in Phnom Penh before I head to the jewel of Cambodia, Angkor Wat and surrounds and I have to say, I like the place. OK some downsides, open sewers that can't handle the inflows from a normal daily flood that turn the street into a river of black, insanely competetive moto and tuk tuk drivers that have to be roped off like animals whenever a tour bus pulls in. But apart from that I think its a slightly more advanced and dare I say, cosmopoliton, city than any I experienced in Vietnam. It's got cafes that wouldn't be out of place in Salamanca (I actually had real bread today, not crust and foam baguettes or stuff that tastes of sugar or coconut), a really happening nightlife scene and all the modern conveniences to purchase at SE Asia prices. Don't get me wrong, its not London or Sydney - but I'm pleasantly surprised. Been doing all the tourist things lately - we hired bikes and rode to the Killing Fields yesterday (15km out of town, fully riding through the sticks). It's the area where Pol Pot had thousands of Cambodians killed as part of his zealous racing cleansing project (I can't even make the words to describe how I feel about that), really quiet and depressing place - but I'm glad I went. It's funny how things remind you of home - riding back I realised how much I missed getting around on my bike and how much I used it as transport - I think when I get back I'll have to upgrade to a really good road bike (and yes, I realise who I sound like). That's it for now - thanks for all the well wishes when I got sick, by the way, the last meal I'd ordered was a plate of vegetables!