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Oman Air was more than adequate with a superb entertainment package that inlcuded the most recent 'Shrek!' Muscat was great for people watching as there were so many different costumes around. However, the minute we arrived in Delhi, things went downhill. Firstly, we couldn't find our pick up. It took 3 calls from our v expensive UK phones to eventually get through to the Tara Palace and to be told the man was there with a red shirt and no sign. So how were we supposed to know?! We then had our first experience of Indian driving - deadly. Always reassuring when your vehicle has no side mirrors. Considering how close the cars get to each other, a mirror wouldn't stand a chance! It goes without saying that there were no seatbelts! Hotel Tara Palace was just simply a hell hole. In the worst location possible, admist the extremities of unashamed poverty. We saw dead bodies, were gauped at, found a rat crawling with maggots. The smell of open sewers and piles of rubbish mixed with intoxicating fumes from the traffic congestion was unbearable. All the pathways were dug up for construction work (pre Commonwealth Games) so there was actually nowhere safe to stand. We hated every minute of our first evening in India. I went to bed dreaming of dead bodies and soldiers with guns.
So our first impression of India was 'we want to go home!' I felt sure the famous Delhi culture shock wouldn't get me but after stepping over a dead body in the filthy body-littered streets around our hotel, I was not looking forward to the next 3 weeks! It was either leave Delhi or leave India so I went to the hotel travel agency to see if we could get a train ticket for the next day to Jaipur. Computer said no! So we tried coach tickets. Computer said no! It was made clear to us that our only feasible option was to book a taxi (an excrutiating £90) But we were so desperate to leave, we agreed and we unwittingly fell for the first of many cons. Of course, I knew this would put my lovely hubby in a foul mood for at least a month! (In case you're reading this and planning on travelling from Delhi to Jaipur - don't believe any of it, just go to the train station and get tickets. If you really want a taxi, it should cost around £40!)
Our second day in Delhi started a little better after we got talking to an experienced India traveller at breakfast. He made us feel less guilty and weak for feeling so disgusted! After joining huge queues for an ATM and discovering surprise surprise that both our cards were blocked, we visited Jama Masjid Mosque - a huge and much more peaceful space and met some friendly school children (before they were chased away by security!) Discovered fresh lime soda - delicious!
The drive to Jaipur took 6hrs with Munjid the driver. It was scary! But we did see a wonderful variety of wildlife on route - parrots, cows, goats, pigs, monkies, elephants and camels. We stopped at the obligatory textile factory and of all the beautiful things they could've shown us and that I probably would've brought, they showed us a plain orange pashmina! Unfortunately, Munjid decided he couldn't be bothered to take us to the doorstep of our Jaipur hotel as promised, so we had no choice but to fork out another 150Rs for a tuktuk. A disgruntled Munjid got no tip! Funny how he'd gone from being in a high level of the cast system in the service station to having a poor and dying family before he left us!
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