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Vikings, Roman Legions and Richard III all came to mind as we neared the walled city of York. It was late in the day, but the sun was still out and I was itching to get exploring. I suspect that Dale, tired from driving, was probably more interested in a nap. However, a quick glance at our tiny b & b room and he was ready to join me on a walk. The nearest gate to the city was only a 5 minute walk away. The tower above the gate once contained a small prison, has been used as a private house, and is now a museum. We climbed the steep and narrow stairway to the top of the wall and set off along it in the direction of the Minster (cathedral).
From the walltop we could look into the back gardens of properties that backed onto the wall, and over the other side of the wall was a steep ditch - all that remains of a moat - and city ring road. While my over active imagination envisaged besieging armies camped outside the city and exchanges of arrow fire, Dale was not so easily impressed by the city defences - "I thought it would be higher"!
As we continued walking we got a brilliant view of the Minster - which was completed in the 1200s and looks very similar to Westminster Abbey. We descended from the wall and walked through the medieval streets. One street in particular, known as The Shambles, had a very medieval feel to it. Formerly a street of butchers shops, the crowded store frontages tilt forward crookedly, and some still retain counters and hooks where the meat would have been laid out for potential customers. On another street we came upon a row of houses which have been standing since the 1300s! The history of this place is incredible!!
Dale and I found a gloomy British pub to sit down for a G & T and glass of ale. Dark wooden furniture, fireplace in the corner, liberty print wallpaper, maroon curtains, and locals standing with pints at the bar - I felt like I was in an episode of Coronation Street! We struggled a bit with the bar maid's thick accent, but ended up with our desired drinks. Finding the pub menu a little pricey for our travel budget, we headed to a nearby fish and chip shop for some haddock and chips. We took our cardboard boxes of food (disappointingly our food did not come wrapped in newspaper) and found a park area to picnic in. From where we sat we were well positioned to hear the bells ringing from 2 or 3 nearby Churches and catch the last of the evening sunshine. A squirrel kept us amused, hopping across the grass looking for food. Dale obliged by throwing a chip its way, which the squirrel leapt upon without hesitation and, holding it in both tiny hands, it nibbled away. Every now and then the squirrel would pause between nibbles to c*** its head at us. Once finished, it darted away, scooting up a tree - still keeping an eye on us!
One of the major York attractions is the Viking centre. We arrived the following morning as the centre was opening when the queue was only 4 or 5 people long. By the time we exited, the line had tripled. The centre is built upon an archaeological site where the remains of a Viking settlement has been uncovered and numerous Viking artefacts preserved. We descended the steps below ground level to where thick glass floors reveal the remains of wooden huts and fences. Glass cases hold Viking objects amazingly preserved - a stitched leather shoe, etched metal brooches, a somewhat dented bucket, a wooden handled tool... All hundreds and hundreds of years old!
History got even more real when we went through the next door, where a long-haired youth was dressed as a Viking and helping visitors aboard something resembling a double rowed chair-lift. Once aboard the chair lift we were carried through a replica Viking village with the most lifelike mannequins I have ever seen - they even blinked! The village had a leather worker, fishermen, a butcher, a trader, soldiers, a prisoner and a man sitting on a long drop - trust the English to be interested in Viking toilet habits! After our ride through the village we walked through another gallery of Viking objects, including three skeletons. Dale was particularly interested in the teeth - badly worn down and the oldest person was only in their 30s at the time of death.
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