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Arriving back in hot and crowded Marrakech and its crazy traffic was a shock after the comparative quiet and cool of Essouira. Crossing roads here involves saying a prayer and stepping off the curb with teeth clenched, waiting for impact, as scooters, cars, buses and horse drawn carriages weave in and out of your path. We have already seen one motorcyclist bowled off his bike by a taxi as both vehicles attempted to take the same gap.
Happily, metropolitan Marrakech does provide a few more western luxuries than some of the more isolated places we have visited. We discovered a cafe a couple of blocks from where we are staying that serves both hamburgers and ice cream sundaes - bliss! There are also more trees and gardens to see, wider and more even footpaths making walking easier, and did I mention the ice cream?!
The medina here is bigger than in Essouira, but less of a labyrinth than Fes. Dale and I whiled away another few hours walking up avenues of handbags, silver teapots, ceramics, African artefacts, jewellery, polo shirts, olives, Chess boards, beauty products, scarves, knitted hats, brass door knockers, lanterns, sunglasses, rugs, pastries, spices, and even turtles and lizards.
At night the main square comes alive with hoards of tourists and locals flocking to the outdoor dining spots and to watch the many performers who use their talents to earn a living. Like a big outdoor circus, in one area acrobats stand on each others shoulders, do flips and handstands, in another part of the square snake charmers sit in a group playing music to their slithering serpents, other musicians play instruments I have never seen before in front of groups of diners, orange juice vendors are set up squeezing fruit before your eyes, veiled women grope for your arm to henna, and ragged children walk around trying to find an audience for their magic tricks. Those without a particular talent either find themselves a busy thoroughfare to stand in with outstretched hand, or dress themselves traditionally and invite tourists to photograph them in return for money. Some even walk up with a snake which they try to drape over your shoulders for a photo and a fee.
We ate dinner at one of the outdoor cafes selling street food. Cunning entrepreneurs, the staff sing and clap for you when you take a seat at their establishment. Once seated, they shamelessly upsell everything, so while you think you have ordered kebabs with salad and chips, you end up with three separate dishes and spending three times more than you thought you were. Then when it comes time to pay the bill you had better have the exact change, because if not, you can guarantee they won't have change or won't have the right change. So you accept whatever change they give you, and then they ask for their tip!! Each time we get hustled, Dale and I look at each other and murmur "cultural experience" to make ourselves feel better!
So now it is our last evening in Morocco and we will soon be having our final dinner with our travelling companions, saying our goodbyes, repacking the suitcases, and getting ready for the next chapter of our journey - Spain!
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Mum Hi Tori Richard sent me the details of your travel blog, so can now enjoy reading about your adventures. Spain is probably sounding quite appealing right now!