We went to overlook this beach to see rare yellow-eyed penguins returning to their nests. There are only 4000 left in the world, so the local council closes this beach at 3pm to protect them, and you view from the cliff above. There were 8 or 9 fur seals lounging about, fighting, being cute when we arrived...that's the brown blobs in this stunning photo! Then excitingly one - just one! - penguin came running up the beach...yes, I missed him...but Andy got a blurry photo as evidence! It was ridiculously exciting. Then we went to a blue penguin colony and saw them all waddling up the beach to feed their chicks. It was freezing, they were late home (confused by the full moon, apparently) but about 80 of the cute little critters came home eventually. Lovely!