We arrive in Agra to pick up our guide for the day Ali. He tells us once in the car tht the Taj Mahal will be shut for a couple of hours as there are important officials visiting and so it will be shut to the public. We are wary but go along with it and he tells us he will take us to the sight of the Black Taj Mahal foundations - this building did not get finished as the kings son put him in prison as the family thought he was wasting too much money on this and were lookjing after their inhertitance. We got dropped off at these gardens and we were at the back of the Taj Mahal across the river and has a brilliant view of the Taj, but we could see hundreds of people milling about. At this point our guide had proceeded to fill us in on every bit of information he could muster about the history of the family, details of the buliding, the gardens anything he could tell us to keep us there longer. I eventually got pissed off and asked him to tajke us to the Taj as it was blatatly obvious visitors were still allowed in. He did as we asked and took us straight there, although they took us through some of the dirtist and poorest streets I have ever seen. Animals and people alike wandered aimlessly emptying their bowels wherever they stopped, their clothes rags, teeth rotten, bodies dirty and skinny - it was a real eye opener - this is evryday life for these people - no wonder they see white skin and think we are rich! This sight was such a contrast as two minutes away was the Taj Mahal in all its glory - costing millions to complete. In India there is so much contrast to be seen everywhere you look - its amazing when you actually sit and think about it.... Our driver dropped us and our guide off a short distance from the entrace to the Taj and then we had to get an elctric car to the gate - he asked us for 750 RP each for the entrance fee and I locked some stuff in a locker before going through - when we looked at our tickets inside turns our they were only 500 RP each - hmmm we were becoming unimpressed with our guide! He'd stalled us and ripped us off(although 500 RP is only about 7 GBP) it wasnt the point he was not getting a tip! Anyway enough whinging hey....the Taj Mahal - what can I say its everything and more - its so impressive - bigger than you expect and just amazing to just look at - it was quite unbelieveable thinking I was sat here in front of one of the wonders of the world! We fought for 'THE' bench for a photo although I wouldnt say its one of my best photos as I felt and looked awful! We wandered through the gardens and up towards the bulding itself - no one is allowed up the stairs or in the Taj with shoes on so the choice is barefoot or shoe covers - we went for the latter. First we just circled it and took soem photos and saw the spot we'd just visited across the river where the foundations of the Black Taj Mahal sat. Then we went into the building - there are the 2 replica tombs for the King and his wife Mumtaz, the real ones lie below the Taj Mahal are not allowed to be visited. It was smaller inside than I imagined and although there were areas closed to the public and I thought the dome would be hollow but the ceiling is flat. The intricate patterns that look painted are actually different coloured stones - we didnt take any photos inside as thought it a little inappropriate. To either side of the Taj is a mosque and a guetshouse - the mosque to this day is still in use but the guesthouse apparantly hasnt been in occupation for years.

The story of the Taj is that Mumtaz (the kings 3rd wife I think?) bore the King 14 children and on the 14th she died in childbirth, the King being heartbroken built the Taj in memory of his beloved wife. Im sure there was a little more in depth detail than that but to be fair I had tired of the guides increasingly long and tiresome stories so by the time it got to the good bit I dont think I was concentrating maybe as much as I should have been! Sorry!

We left through the same gate and ran staight into our guide - hmmmm - our driver wasnt there staright away and we had to wait for 10 minutes of so for him to appear - turns out he thought he hd a problem with his gearbox and wanted to get it checked out - great! God know if it was fixed but im here to tell the tale. We then were told they were taking us soemwhere for lunch and then he wanted to take us here there and everywhere to see this that ans the other. Over lunch we decided to tell him we didnt want to go anywhere else just back to Delhi mwe had a long journey ahead and couldnt be bothered with his prattling on - as you can imagine he was not impressed and tried to sway us but we just said no - the driver dropped him off somewhere futher into town and we just said goodbye without tips etc - he'd made commission off taking us to the Black Taj, our tickets he'd ripped us off and the restaurant we'd had lunch (it was more expensive than anywhere we had been!) I know this is how they earn their living but he probably would have got a bigger tip if he had just been staright with us! Anyway that was the start of our journey back to Delhi with Sonu, it took about 5 hours and the traffic jams are far from pleasant in India - the smell of traffic sticks in your throt, the constant beeping cannot be drowned out by your iPod - I tried - and the feeling of feeling like ur ever going to get back to your hotel pops into your head every now and again! You gently snooze only to be jerked awake by sudden brake movements or tapping at the window by some sellers or beggars - I really dotn think Id like to return to the Noth of India - it wasnt a pleasant experiencealthough Im glad I made the effort to visit the Taj Mahal. I wouldnt recommend Delhi to anyone but then it may be a much better experience for someone more travelled than myself, as this is my first stop - Although Im sure its definitely prepared me for Bangkok!