Irkutsk to Moscow

Four nights on a train; this part of our journey was always going to be a trial. Standing on the platform looking at our train, with a laugh our guide informed us "this is Russia's very old train, it is bad, and it is worst".

Up until this point, the hospitality we had experienced in Russia was as warm as the surrounding, snow covered hills and valleys. However, this all looked to be changing as we were greeted enthusiastically by a young Russian man who would be accompanying us on our carriage, for the next leg of the journey. He had a very basic grasp of English but delighted in telling us about his hatred for both coloured and Jewish people, all within the first half hour of meeting him. His gleeful and repellent demeanour had been enhanced by the consumption of a number of bottles of vodka. An impressive feat when one considered it was only 10am.

Our carriage attendant was a young Russian lady, who successfully continued to carry the mantle of Russian hospitality. It was obvious from the outset that there would be no taming of this shrew, as she made it clear that she was not happy to have us on her carriage. Orders were given in Russian, despite knowing full well that we could not understand a word that was being said. When we did not comply with what ever her request was, she would simply yell louder.

East-West relations were further enflamed when the West revolted, in response to the 30 degrees that the shrew insisted on maintaining the cabin temperature at. This made sleep next to impossible and lounging around far from pleasant (more so when one takes into account that there was no possibility of a shower on this mammoth train journey). In an attempt to reduce the temperature, a door was wedged open, in the hope of creating a much needed breeze. Further yelling ensued in Russian tongue and the door was firmly closed.

Despite these few speed bumps, time was not protracted and the nights and days passed faster than I thought they might. In similar fashion to past train trips, time was occupied with card games and books. Krissy managed to maintain her undefeated record in scrabble, while I waded through the 'just add water' category of cuisine.

Pulling into Moscow ended our time on the Trans-Siberian. It was a fantastic trip and a great way to experience diverse peoples and landscapes. We had travelled over a third of the way around the globe and it only took 3 books, a pack of cards, travel scrabble, 17 packets of noodles, 8 cups of powdered potato, too much chocolate and a tolerance for belligerent Russian women.