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I am behind the times. So sorry. So so much to catch up on. I'll try to keep it brief, but we all know how difficult that seems to be for me. Time to spin some yarn.
Our last week in Nepal was amazing. We headed back to Kathmandu for a few days. Our first night back we went to this class little attic bar to watch our old hippie friend Marcus play with a blues and rock band. Mostly old covers from the 70s but it was awesome. Good music, good vibes, and the band picked up most of our drinks. We then all went back to our hotel and spent the rest of the night drinking on the rooftop.
Britt and I went rafting for a day. It was so much fun. We had a really great guide and luckily the river wasn't so high. At one point in our trip our guide actually pushed me overboard into the river and a few others jumped out to swim about for a while. I'm sure you can all imagine my graceful, agile self trying to clamber my way back onto the raft. I need a lift.
Our last day in Kathmandu, our local friend Ashish took us to the city zoo. Probably one of the strangest things I have done in my life. But we did see tigers, an elephant, and about 5 fish tanks full of guinea pigs.
Our journey to India was an adventure and a half. We booked a night bus to the border and then a second bus to get us to Varanasi. We little did we know that we were getting put on a very local style bus, filled on with old, local men. The bus ride was horrendous. So long and uncomfortable. And in the end, the bus didn't even take us all the way to the border, we were forced off in a town 5 km away from our supposed destination. We got in bicycle rickshaws to head to the border crossing, but were told that nothing was open yet (it was about 6am) and that we should have some chai first. That's when we started chatting to our rickshaw driver about our situation. Turns out we overpayed our bus tickets and would actually be on local bus, not a tourist bus. And that the journey to Varanasi would take 13 hours. he convinced us to book an overnight train from Gorkapur to Varanasi and then just take a taxi from the border to the train station (bout a 2 hour drive).
So in the meantime, he took us on a tour of Lumbini, Buddha's birthplace. It was pretty cool. But after a sleepless night on a very rickety bus, I was quite prepared to spend 5 hours walking endlessly in the hot hot sun.
Getting through the border was the most ridiculous thing I have ever done in my life. I thought Jamie and my walk to Nicaragua was a confusion fiasco, but at least there was organization and direction. Essentially we went into one house, got our stamp out of Nepal, then we drove past a sign that said welcome to India, then we drove past a market before stopping at a little ground suit with a big white picnic table in front filled by 6 Indian men. Customs cards checked and passport stamped, we got back in our cab only to be stopped by a Polish couple who were heading the same direction as us and hitched a ride. Continuing on our journey, we got stopped twice by military men. I fully expected a passport check. Instead they used their wooden baton to poke our backpacks and squeezed the outsides of our day packs. Most thorough drug check I've ever seen.
But we made it to India!
The train to Varanasi started out fine. We were in the sleeper car, which is essentially walls of 3 tiered beds all over the place. We settled in quite comfortably and after nearly 40 hours of no sleep plus the long day of walking in the sun, we fell asleep. Little did we know that pretty much anyone can hitch a ride in the sleeper car. I woke up in the middle of the night to find some random Indian man sitting on the edge of my bed and about 6 sleeping on the floor below. Trying to get off the train at our stop was ridiculous. Literally climbing over bodies and pushing past people who do not seem to understand the concept of if I get off the train first, there will be more room for them to get on the train. My one small glimmer of hope came when I man tried to push some of the crowd out of the way for me. I soon realized after that this gesture was done so that he'd have full opportunity to feel up my back end as I tried to get off the train. First impression of India, not impressed.
Redemption did come in the form of a tuk tuk driver. Damn you lonely planet for giving me no hope in India. We got so lucky to have a tuk tuk driver not only not screw us over on our cab price, but he also spent about 30 minutes with me, wandering the crazy, winding back streets of Varanasi, trying to find our proper hotel. Not once did he try to take us to some s*** hole guest house. It was wonderful. Varanasi is a huge confusing mess of back street alleyways. It's almost impossible to navigate. As soon as we got there, we decided to leave the next day. So after catching up on some well needed sleep, Britt and I hired a boatman to take us on a tour of the Ganges. I've seen the photos and knew about how dirty the river was, but seeing it in real life is absolutely revolting. It actually looks like chocolate milk. And there were so many people swimming in it. We were again lucky enough to watch bodies being prepared and lay to rest on the burning ghats. Very interesting to witness.
The next day we booked it out of Varanasi for a very long trek up to Manali, in the Himalayas. 15 hours on a train to Delhi. We opted for AC class, which was much more comfortable and far less sketchy than our last train ride. After getting into Delhi, we found out that the only bus to Manali leaves at night. So we spent the day touring the Red Fort while being followed by this Indian military man who was working as a tourist ambassador for the Commonwealth Games. He was nice enough but a bit too overbearing. Especially since we just wanted the afternoon to walk around a bit, but mostly just relax in the grass, maybe read a little. Oh Well.
The bus ride up to Manali was uneventful. I almost got motion sick but was able to man up in the end. Manali itself is so beautiful. The mountain valley is huge and so lush. There are coniferous trees everywhere and grassy patches across the mountain sides. Most mountains are snowcapped as well.
Since being in Manali, Britt and I have gone canyoning and paragliding. It was super intense. Especially the paragliding. WHOA MAN am I ever afraid of heights. Super glad I went though, it was pretty awesome. We've made friends with some pretty awesome local boys out here who've done a great job on taking us out and showing us how to live it up proper Manali style. FYI, 7 year old Old Monk rum costs 4.50 for a 2-6! Awesome!
After about 5 days of hanging out in Manali, Britt and I went with our 2 local friends, Challa and Biku, out to McLeod Ganj. It was nice there but not the awe-inspiring Buddhist scene I was expecting. We ended up only staying 3 days. We hiked up and saw a couple of waterfalls which were nice but nothing spectacular. The highlight of the trip was meeting another Edmontonian couple, Jay and Ella, who we convinced to come back to Manali with us to do a 3 days trek.
So after 3 days we headed back to Manali. We've spent most of the time here just hanging out with our local friends, which has been awesome. Andrea finally came out last week, so it's been so awesome catching up with her. The poor girl was given 0 time for recovery. Her first day off the plane, we got her on an hour long hike more or less straight up a mountain. She's been a trooper though.
Our 3 day trek through the mountains was amazing. Definitely kicked my ass in a few places but it was so worthwhile. Our first night, we got so high up that there was actually snow around the campsite. SNOW!!! I finally got to touch snow for the first time in almost 3 years. I was just beside myself with excitement.
Now I am back in Manali yet again. Andrea and Britt went paragliding a couple days ago. And now that we are such good friends with the locals, we were lucky enough to attend an Indian wedding celebration this weekend. We went to the dance party on Friday night and boogied down with old men in mountain hats. yesterday we went back again and ate dinner there full on Indian style. We sat on rugs in a field are were hand fed rice and dahl curries. No cutlery, full on hand to mouth style. After that, being foreign women, we were able to scuff off traditional rules and go sit in the men's tent to drink with the guys there. The energy and vibes within the whole compound were electrifying. I was such a neat experience. Around 8pm, when most of the men started getting too drunk, our good friend Ravi decided it time to take us home before things start to get out of hand. Hundred of old drunk Indian men around only 3 young Canadian girls can only lead to trouble. Bed time came early yesterday. But not before Andrea and I actually watched the moon set behind the mountain tops. It was a very strange and surreal thing to see. Very cool.
As for now, we are having some troubles trying to find an available train down south. Seems for now I am stuck in the mountains. Once again, life is rough.
- comments
Trevpr "SNOW!!! I finally got to touch snow for the first time in almost 3 years. I was just beside myself with excitement." Did I tell you I started snowboarding this year? :) Trip sounds great girls, stay out of trouble, and once again don't do anything I wouldn't do.
Trevpr "SNOW!!! I finally got to touch snow for the first time in almost 3 years. I was just beside myself with excitement." Did I tell you I started snowboarding this year? :) Trip sounds great girls, stay out of trouble, and once again don't do anything I wouldn't do. PS. Thanks for the postcard, it made my month (boring month lol).
Paige Once again, I am so impressed by your blog :) You have become quite the storyteller (and even me, with my short attention span) cannot be peeled away from your adventures. Take care and stay safe! Question for you: where did you stay/sleep at night while in the mountains?