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So we did it and survived. The most horrific and terrifying bus journey you could imagine. I had heard from Vicky that it wasn't the best journey so wasn't holding my hopes too high but as anticipated the roads to Potosi didn't fail to disappoint. We took the journey at night which somewhat added to the terror but in the same breath actually hid the true extent of the unbarriered sheer cliff drops. Our luck was out and we took our seats at the back, the seats were rigid (even though we had paid extra for a reclining seat!) and weren't fixed properly, they were unstable enough when we weren't moving, let alone when we were. Plus the back seats had reduced head space which resulted in numerous head whacking experiences on route as well as a constant cold gale blowing through my stuck open window. So we chugged up hills, drove and skidded through desert areas, stopped in small localised 'towns' for toilet (ahem…hole in floor!) stops, bumped and grinded on unmade cliff edges of single track roads all the way there. We almost had an accident with a lorry on the single track road and after (luckily… we we're thanking god) he reversed into a lay-by and we passed. Nevertheless, 6 hours later we made it to Potosi, the highest city in the world at over 4000meters above sea level… in one piece. Sleep deprived and still slightly shaky we passed out in our warm (yes warm!!!) room until morning.
Potosi served as a lovely city for us to just chill out really and keep warm and recover from the Salt Flats adventure. The city was more the size of a town and was it easy to get around and enjoy. The most unusual, and we soon learned rather typical Bolivian thing, is that the 'super market' was in fact just a market with the added exception that it was under a cover (woo!). It reminded us of being at a fate and looking at the tombola stands where random cans of foodstuff and drinks are all lined up, but in this instance obviously without the raffle ticket stuck to them. But the place was just full of these stalls, making it a maze of alley ways selling practically the same stuff, although some had fresh breads in baskets, nothing had a price, of course, because otherwise they couldn't charge the tourists more… (ha ha, cynical hey?!)
We had been told to be wary of the Bolivian food but in almost all the restaurants we ate in we had such delicious food. Although we had to wait what seemed like an eternity whilst they obviously went out back gathered the herd, killed the meat, prepared and then cooked it (no no I'm joking but it did feel like that's what they were doing!) it was cooked perfectly and was super tasty!
The one activity we partook in here was to visit the working silver mines. We spent almost two days syking ourselves up to it as we were both a bit nervous about whether we could handle the small spaces, bearing in mind our towerful sizes too of course. But after speaking to some people in the hostel they encouraged us to do it and advised that you can always turn back whenever you feel uncomfortable. So we took the plunge and soon enough we were decked out in some of the finest mining gear and were at the market buying gifts of coca leaves, drinks, 90% proof paintstripper…oh sorry I mean alcohol, and would you believe it dynamite for the miners. It is perfectly legal here to buy and sell dynamite as well as the coca leaves (which for those not in the know is the raw material they derive cocaine from… but it's used in mines and at altitude to help for breathing and sickness).
After looking around some of the most basic factories you have seen which surprisingly and samazingly supplies the Americas and the UK (amongst other countries) with copious amounts of i,ported silver. To put things in perspective it is only recently that they have had helmets with lights on instead of candles and the most advanced bit of kit they believe they have is a winch….a hand operated one. Another brilliant part of the tour was that we got to see some dynamite being lit and exploded!
The mine tour itself was hard and very challenging and yes it was extremely tight in places but our intrigue kept us going. Climbing down was easiest as Sven and I adopted the bum shuffle manoeuvre, but climbing up from only level 3 (there are around 11 levels, some at 45 degrees!) was in a different league all together. By the time you touch down on level 3 it is far more difficult to breathe due to all the dust in the air. When you then mix that with altitude, heat and physical activity to climb back up these small tunnels it becomes painful and exhausting. But we made it safely and despite the fact that we were covered in dust from head to toe, had hit our heads numerous times and Nikki had completely lost her voice we honestly thought it was one of the most insightful and challenging things we have ever done and we are so pleased to have done it. We had a great tour guide who told us so many fascinating things about the mines and the stories of the workers. We have the uttermost respect for what these miners do and can, at least now, start to appreciate what a gruel it is to work down there. The sad thing is that they get paid pittance and all do it, obtain their motivation to do it on hope and on the chance that maybe, just maybe one day, it will be them that hits the gold… or should I say silver!
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