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They say life is all about experiences, so we're aiming to pack as many in as possible and our latest was yet another one to remember. Yesterday we were picked up together with our new jungle mates - Anouk and Baz from Holland and a family of four from Denmark - to embark on a two day trek to the hill tribe villages north of Chiang Mai. It was clear those Danes were going to be super fit, so we already had our concerns about keeping up with them after our tour guide had warned us there were a lot of "up and down, up and down" trekking to be done through the Thai jungle.
We made our introductions in the back of our glorified pick-up truck as we travelled out of the city and into the hills. Daddy Dane told us he's a Christmas tree seller, so he's obviously taking some down time at the minute. Anouk explained she teaches animal behaviour, and Bas teaches people about forests, so a jungle trek was right up his street.
Anyway, as we were just starting to get to know each other we rather worryingly pulled into the local tourist police station to register our entry into the jungle with photocopies of our passports. But we were assured the trek was safe, and the guide even kindly reminded us that if we saw snakes he had a good aim with his knife!
After that we had another pit stop for some food supplies, before we reached our first proper stop - a gorgeous water fall just inside the National Park. This place was the stuff of shampoo adverts, and there was no stopping any of us from diving straight in for a swim. The water was freezing, but it was a lovely relief from the sweltering heat.
After a quick stop for lunch of fried rice, veg and pineapple, we were then all loaded back into the pick-up truck for one final drive deeper into the National Park. That's when we were thrown off and told that if we couldn't carry it, we couldn't take it… including our own water. We were also reminded that we'd be trekking for four hours… in the height of the day's heat…. Up and down, up and down. Lovely.
As we geared up, our guide Mr See handed us each a life jacket (to be used for bamboo rafting the next day) which we were told to attach to our backpacks and off we went. It didn't start easy - ten minutes into one hell of a steep climb we wondered what we'd let ourselves in for. As predicted those Danes marched ahead, leaving us panting, sweating and gasping for water behind… Only another three hours and fifty minutes to go…
We seriously questioned turning back before it was too late, but Mr See cheerily insisted this was the worst climb of the lot - it was more down than up after this, apparently. His motivation was doubtful, but we persevered and later realised that down was just as bad as up anyway, as we slipped around dangerously close to sheer drops over the hills.
Red faced and trailing behind, the Danes had to stop every so often to wait for the rest of us which was slightly embarrassing. The effort paid off though when finally, after some very dubious bridge crossings, a village of about 100 people was in sight. We actually heard it before we could see it - pigs oinked, chickens clucked, and dogs barked as they roamed between the clusters of wooden huts on stilts.
Rather disappointingly the villagers seemed quite uninterested in us when we arrived, so most of our authentic Thai experience so far had come from the banter we'd had with our two guides. They were keen to practice their English and explained how they basically live in the hills - escorting tourists in and out. They also told us that now they're in their early 30s there was no hope for them to settle down with a nice Thai girl anymore. It was a little bit sad, but we came to realise that they live for the trekking, and "happy water" (fermented rice) which they later got absolutely hammered on. We stayed up late with daddy Dane, Anouk and Bas, holding back tears of laughter as one of the guides slurred and giggled as he tried to impress us with his ridiculous jokes.
Eventually the tiredness kicked in, and it was time to get some shut eye. Our accommodation was basic to say the least. There was a shower (cold river water)-come-toilet (hole in the ground) in a wooden hut. Only trouble was, the hut didn't provide much privacy from frogs and some of the largest spiders we've seen. Luckily it was after the shower that Mr See told us there are tarantulas living nearby… Shame he couldn't wait until the morning to share that with us though.
We all slept on thin mattresses on the floor of a large hut. We did have a much-needed mosquito net, but sadly it wasn't the best so it was a long night for Nat as she frantically flicked off mosquitos, spiders and beetles as they crawled all over her. Then the cockerels started, and it wasn't even light yet. None of us could sleep through it, apart from Bret of course who was the only one who woke up declaring he'd slept like a baby all night.
After breakfast of coffee, toast and more pineapple, we were told today would be an easy hike, but as we ascended another steep hill we realised that wasn't quite true. This time our guide pointed out holes that had been dug out by wild pigs, tarantulas and giant ant colonies along the way; and we had Bas to point out the different types of trees which was handy.
After another hour or so we arrived at a tiny village which was home to two elephants. The Danes were first to climb up onto them for a trek, while we joined Bas and Anouk on a bamboo raft on the stream alongside them. We had to stand up (or get a wet bum) as we floated along peacefully.
After about 30 minutes or so, we switched - with the Danes boarding the raft, and we went on the elephants. We tramped through the jungle and in and out of the stream, until our elephant got startled and started walking around in circles. It was a little bit concerning as our mahout couldn't speak English and we were being thrown all over the place, but we realised that there was a cow wandering around through the trees next to us which frightened poor old Nelly.. After a few minutes staying still with Nelly's ears twitching, we finally continued to our destination.
We all thought it was time for lunch by this point, and then back in the car to head to Chiang Mai. It was the height of the heat again so we were quite relieved to be able to rest up for a bit. But the guides started shooing us all back on to two bamboo rafts. We all looked at eachother confused and Mr See explained we were to raft back to the truck… for the next three hours. Nat was told to stand at the front, and hold on to a tripod of three bamboo poles which carried our bags. Anouk stook behind, and Bret and Bas were stuck at the back to help steer with their own bamboo poles. Clearly it was about to get a bit rough as they insisted on making sure all our money was shoved into a plastic bag (which probably would have done nothing to save it!)
As it turns out, three hours went really quickly, and we all had loads of fun navigating the rapids, and clinging on for dear life. Luckily we didn't fall in, but Bas did twice…
By the end of it we were all drenched though, and we were so exhausted it was a very sleepy ride back once we finally reached the pick up truck after lunch of noodles, veg and more pineapple (of course).
Now we're back in Chiang Mai, and have said a fond farewell to our new Danish friends. Having realised we'd failed to book accommodation, we've just checked into the same hostel as Anouk and Bas - who we're sure to stay in touch with.
We know we keep saying it, but the trek really was one of the highlights of our trip so far. We've met hill tribe villagers, trekked through the most beautiful scenery, and slept under conditions Nat never thought possible, and we've made some new friends. If life is about experiences, we pretty sure we're living it to the full…
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