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Hi everyone, here's our latest travel update:
From Michoacan we took a long bus ride back to to the east of Mexico, bypassing Mexico City, and arriving in Puebla 8 hours later. We've got used to these long journeys by now; the time passes quickly as the buses are very modern and comfortable with wide reclining seats and plenty of legroom. There are also goody bags containing a sandwich (often with chilies or chilli sauce!), biscuits and a choice of drink. The long haul buses generally operate from large termini on the edge of the city; these are also very modern and clean and are more like airports with check-in desks and separate departure areas.
We were staying in a suburb of Puebla called Cholula and as we travelled from the bus station to our hostel we had some great views of another volcano, Popocatepetl which is the second highest peak in Mexico at 5452m. The sun was setting behind it and a plume of smoke was rising from the crater. We went back the next day to get a better view at sunset but the light wasn't as good so we photographed a postcard to show you!
One night we ate in a small bistro in Cholula run by an English speaking family. The father (and chef) joined us to have a chat when we'd finished our meal and we learned that his grandfather had lived in Southend and then showed us around the very grand family home, the walls covered with photos, including some of his grandfather with Margaret Thatcher, and letters from various royal palaces in England and Spain.
After two days we moved on, now heading south east for 5 hours to Oaxaca (pronounced wa-ha-ka). For three nights we stayed at our best hostel so far, a little out of town but with great views of the surrounding mountains and a pool, all for about £20 a night.
We took in all of the sights in the Oaxaca area; Monte Alban, a ruined city dating back to 300AD; El Tule, a 1500 year old cypress tree claimed to be the widest in the world at 11m diameter and 58m circumference; a village where every house had a weaving business (and shop); the best of all, for us, was a 'petrified' waterfall created by mineral springs with green and blue paddling pools at the top of the falls. We also stopped at a Mezcal factory to see the production of this potent Mexican spirit, similar to Tequila but coloured and with a smoky flavour. Both Mezcal and Tequila are made from distilled cactus juice. Mezcal is served with slices of orange and an orange powder made from salt, chill and the worm that lives in the cactus. I also tried a whole worm (it was dead at the time!) with my second glass.
On the final day in Oaxaca one of us (!) went on a Mexican cookery course which started with a trip to the local food market to buy the ingredients for the menu that we had chosen earlier. The dishes to be prepared and cooked were: Fresh tortillas, the dough is made from boiled corn mixed with powdered limestone
Quesadillas (melted cheese sandwiched between two tortillas) with grasshoppers
Roasted chillies stuffed with shredded chicken and beans
Lentil, bacon, plantain and pineapple soup
Chicken mole (a mole is a sauce made with up to 17 ingredients, often thickened and flavoured with chocolate)
Flan (a Mexican creme caramel)
A cucumber and lime drink (with a hint of chilli of course)
No doubt the grasshopper ingredient caught your eye! We'd seen these being sold in markets in Oaxaca when we arrived. They are a local delicacy which have their insides removed before being fried; they're really not that bad, just like crispy onion pieces when mixed in with other things. At the end of the preparation the three of us on the course retired to the roof terrace overlooking Oaxaca cathedral for a well-earned beer while kitchen staff finished the cooking. We then ate what we'd made for lunch; even the grasshoppers went down well and you'll be pleased to know that I'll be bringing a few home as a treat for you to try!
One other thing we wanted to tell you about is the Dia de Muertos, the Day of the Dead, which is held in Mexico each November. This turns into the usual week long fiesta and is unusual in that whole families have picnics in cemeteries, cleaning and tidying the graves of relatives, often camping out there overnight. Someone explained to us that the Mexican attitude to death can be quite light-hearted as they believe it does not represent the end of life but its continuation in a parallel world. Traditionally the spirits of departed children visit on the first night followed by adults on the second night when they join their living relatives to talk, dance and sing. The time is also commemorated with skeletons dressed up in colourful clothing, brightly painted ceramic skulls being sold in the shops and cartoons depicted in cartoons as mocking death. It's all a bit strange for us but has been fascinating to learn about as we've travelled through the country.
That's about it for now except to say thanks to anyone who has left messages for us; we love receiving and reading these while we're so far away from home so please keep them coming!
Love from Linda and Tony xx
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Comments
john boyle Realy enjoying your blogs, keep enjoying and stay safe Jan 19, 2014
Mum and Dad xx Your blogs are so interesting, I wonder who it was that went on the cookery course!! The grasshoppers sound interesting if I don't tell Dad what they really are he might have a go!! Jan 19, 2014
Celia Life in Lymm will feel very mild when you get back - what a wonderful time you are having. All ok at No:3 - your grey car went on Sunday. Now Monday and a lovely sunny day. Take care. Jan 20, 2014
- comments
john boyle Realy enjoying your blogs, keep enjoying and stay safe
Mum and Dad xx Your blogs are so interesting, I wonder who it was that went on the cookery course!! The grasshoppers sound interesting if I don't tell Dad what they really are he might have a go!!
Celia Life in Lymm will feel very mild when you get back - what a wonderful time you are having. All ok at No:3 - your grey car went on Sunday. Now Monday and a lovely sunny day. Take care.