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Hi all and welcome to my penultimate blog!! Just Yokohama and Tokyo to go now before i fly back home, it really has gone so quick can`t believe i am coming home already....
On leaving the big city of Nagoya i left the coast for pretty much the first time in Japan and headed to a small city on the edge of the mountains called Takayama. It was kinda like Kyoto with lots of temples and shrines only on a much smaller scale. Visited many temples and a wicked Golden temple which is the world headquarters of some new fangled religion set up in the last couple of decades or so, not sure why Takayama is the at the centre of it but the massive building with a sail like roof was certainly impressive. Also went to this cool folk village that is a recreation of village life centuries ago and lots of old buildings have been moved here, either as residents have moved to the cities or interestingly when some villages have been flooded to make way for dams and hydroelectric power which is apparently quite common in Japan. Takayama also signalled my first nights sleep in a bed in Japan, 2 weeks into it!! (Although i don`t mind the tent or the managa kissa internet cafes it was nice to have a bed and the duvet was sensational!!)
Well after Takayama I spent a week in the mountains in the Northern Japan Alps National park walking from Murudo to Kamikochi, apparently the ultimate long multi day hiking route in Japan according to my guidebook. Murudo was beautiful as we climbed above the clouds and broke through to gloriour sunshine with a huge 3,000+ mountain in the background. It also had a cool volcanic area with bubbling pools, smoke and a strong smell of sulphur.
The hike took 6 days of which the first 3 was in the clouds with intermitent rain followed by three days of glorious sunshine. Camped 6 of the 7 nights i was in the mountains, which was absolutely freezing at night bearing in mind the altitude, i do rue that decision to buy a one-season sleeping bag, never will i make that mistake again!!, and stayed in a mountain hut on night when i was cold, wet and a little bit miserable. The hut kinda like a basic hotel on the top of a mountain, where i was the only guest, cheered me up and i got to dry my clothes and myself and the owner kept bringing me Green Tea and coffee and he even made me a Japanese Bento (box lunch) for the next days hike. Was outer my price range but was the best money i have spent in Japan, without a doubt.
The route started at about 2,500m and climbed 3 or 4 peaks over 3,000 m including the 3rd and 5th highest mountains in Japan before descending into Kamikochi at 1,600m on the final day. It also included this famous strech of hiking/rock climbing called the "Daikeretto" which is described as the most exhilating (or scariest) bit of hiking you can do in Japan without specialist gear and to be honest it wasn`t exhiliarting i was absolutely s*** scared and have no idea how i made it through alive. Think sheer cliff faces, vertical drops, steel chains, 10-20m vertical ladders all at an altitude of 3,000m with a backpack and annoyingly a front pack as i couldn`t fit all my food in the backpack, how they call that hiking i don`t know. I clung on for dear life in many parts and had to muster up enough energy to get myself up the mountain, i was so glad when that part was over, the relief was immense. I was also the only walker without a bell on my backpack which apparently scares of the big bad bears, so that was another worry at certain times in the woodlands.
Kamikochi was a beautiful touristy resort at the end of the route, and despite not having a welcoming party to congratulate me on my achievement which felt like i had run 3 marathons back-to back, i managed to feel a sense of achievement and enjoy the finishing destination.
Back in civilisation, i made it down the road to Matsumoto where i checked into a cheap (for Japan) hotel and recovered from my ordeal. Spent 2 days there visting the castle and walking around the nice streets and sleeping in a bed again. Found an indian curry house as well and couldn`t resist the temtation, which brought back alot of fond memories of India, Japan is probably second only to India in terms of food i have had on this trip, although Sushi is the most disgusting food i have tried, i even went back for a second helping just to make sure the first batch just weren`t a bad serving but know it is official Sushi is horrible!! Why Sushi has made it worldwide when the rest of Japanese food is so beautiful is a mystery to me.
The next day on leaving Matsumoto was either a disaster or an adventure depending on which way you look at it. I was heading for an area north of Mount Fuji which meant taking the JR Chuo line east so i do that but whilst dozing we suddenly stop and everyone gets off the train, 2 hours earlier than i expected so i find out i got a section of the line that branches off to the south, no worry the station inspector informs me just get the next train from platform one and you will reconnect with the JR Chuo line. OK i do this but after an hour or so i`m thinking we should have reconnected by now but no and i look at a map and relise i am on a completely different line. A bit tired and slightly annoyed at the dud information i thought oh well lets just go this way instead and see where i end up. Turns out i`m on a super slow train heading for a place called Toyohashi where i arrive some 6 hours after leaving Matsumoto!! Since Toyohashi isn`t on my Japanese map and my guidebook doesn`t mention the city I ask at tourist information for a map to see what there is to do in Toyohashi and find some accomodation. Accomodation is easy as there is a cheap Manga Kissa 2 blocks from the station, as for sight seeing there is a half built castle, a river and a few parks. I actually really enjoyed my day there, its nice to go somewhere out of the ordinary which sees few other tourists and is a bit more authentic, tho i think i`ll keep to my itinery from now on!!
Having ended up where i did it meant going to the south, rather than the intended north of Mount Fuji and i spent the next 3 days camping on a beautiful lake in Hakone. Lots more hiking around the lake, up some mountains and to another cool volcanic area where all the Japs bought hard boiled eggs boiled in the Boiling volcanic pools, i resisted the urge seen as i don`t like the white and you yolk is better runny i think. Also had amazing views across to mount Fuji, will definetely have to come back and climb that one day, just out of season on this occassion, next time tho.
Spent today at a nice former capital of Japan called Kamakura, with yes more temples and shrines, nice ones tho and a giant Buddha with lots of religious people praying, bowing and chucking money in the pots around it. Also for 20 Yen i got to go inside the Buddha, it was dark tho so not the best 20 yen i ever spent. Got the train this afternoon and here i am in the 2nd biggest city in Japan, Yokohama, although to all intents and purposes it is the same city as Tokyo as it is connected making it the largest city in the world!!! 2 days here and 10 in Tokyo then home sweet home
See ya all soon
Travelling Tommy
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