04/03/2011 to 16/03/2011 - Vietnam - Quy Nhon to Dalat to Mui Ne to Saigon

You would have thought that having spent 12 weeks galavanting around South East Asia, the sacred Buddhist beliefs on the sanctity of life would have had a profound effect on Micki. This was obviously not the case as she systematically set about murdering the countless cockroaches and insects of the night that plagued our mountainous and winding bus journey from Quy Nhon to Dalat. That said, during that specific journey we both had to turn to our own, yet very sketchy godly beliefs for reassurance and divine intervention. Our lead footed and kamikaze bus driver (who must get paid based on how quickly he gets from A to B) screeched the ageing bus round the tightest of corners whilst incessantly veering onto the wrong side of the road on the blindest of bends to needlessly overtake vehicles which, were travelling a mere 5mph slower than we were. It wasn't surprising therefore that he kept touching his dashboard buddha and lucky talisman that hung from his mirror, ironically, it was the latter that nye on impeded his view every time he thrust us round a bend.

Vietnam's highway code simply reads: the biggest vehicle wins right of way by default - testament by the many carcasses of lesser vehicles that litter the roadside. Unfortunately for us also, it seems their only driving test is about as tricky as a boy scouts cycling proficiency. Sleeping through it is never an option either as for some inexplicable reason the Vietnamese are insistent on playing two extremes of music, namely; trance or vietnamese power ballads at deafeningly loud levels throughout the journeys entirety.

Our time in the odd, yet apparently 'up and coming' resort town of Quy Nhon was blighted by some blighty esque weather and turned into a real non event for 2 days with the only real highlight being a 3 hour stint of table tennis with some pro local players in which they made a mockery of my 'talked up' talents.

Dalat, a favourite of local honeymooners, certainly made up for Quy Nhon's failings. Famed for its local wine (£1.20 a bottle!!) and where the beer is way cheaper than the water (15p in some places) we were able on most nights to do our bit to boost the local breweries and vineyards. The food in 'Nam' is equally as cheap and with historical influences from the culinary experts of the Chinese and French it makes such dishes as fish in clay pot and beef sauteed with lemongrass, chilli and garlic a thrice daily staple of anyones diet. Sticking to our well practiced travelling mantra in Dalat, we hired a moped and 'just got out there' which, led us to Lian Biang mountain range, a steely 2136m high. We somehow managed to hike to the summit which really tested our mettle. Hiking 8km through the dense tropical forest, whilst being battered by monsoon rains was not an easy task especially when the final 3km was a near vertical ascent over giant Banyan tree roots and mudslides, but the summit offered up an incredible panorama of Vietnams central highlands.

We left Dalat for the beach resort of Mui Ne, a full 90km on some very questionable mountain bikes. The ride was monumental, a full 50km of exhilarating downhill action through the central highlands in the blistering heat of Vietnams dry season. Loved it! Micki rode up front, right on the guides rear wheel and very nearly stacked it completely on a steep hairpin but just managed to hold it together, she is now however, sporting a cracking bruised shin for her efforts.

Mui Ne is a classic beach resort with palm tree lined boulevards and white sandy beaches. Oddly however, it is predominantly populated by holidaying wealthy Russians who are very well catered for by having their own hotels, bars, russian written signage and menu's. I'm not one to pigeon hole and stereotype but here goes anyway; all the russian men looked hard as nails and were either donning some very naughty string vests, bohemian shirts or more disturbingly, strutting around topless whilst drinking copious bottles of neat vodka as if it is a renowned thirst quencher. In Mui Ne some R & R was much needed and with the fact our skin was offensively white to many, we found ourselves in a supine position for several days either pool or beach side with little else to consider other than where our next steaming bowl of Laksa was coming from. Hate us much yet?!

Our final days in Vietnam were spent in Saigon, which is by far one of our favourite asian cities. Saigon is a crazy city where people limp, scamp and sidestep out the way of literally millions of motorbikes that make the roads beyond hell, where the local mafia send out OAP's and disabled kids to beg, where the service is either rude, hostile or charming and where locals of all ages play badminton, practice tai chi or join in free aerobics sessions in many of the public parks throughout the city. A truly great city in short.

A quick stop at the Cu Chi tunnels to see how the Vietcong outwitted the clueless Yanks during the ill fated Vietnam war was a great way to end our month visit to this A-mazing country.

Next stop, up the Mekong Delta to Cambodia

love Tom and Micki x