Yesterday after seeing the pagoda we got back on the train and trundled back to Dalat. The countryside inbetween is terraced but almost completely covered in agricultural growing tunnels. Not pretty at all, but the crops inside looked very lush and healthy. Every vegetable you could think of, a few you couldn't, and a lot of cut flowers too. Arriving back in town it rained very heavily. We took shelter in a roadside cafe and drank tiny glasses of thick treacly and potent coffee. They bring your coffee in a little metal filter contraption that sits on top of your glass, very slowly dripping a black tar-like liquid onto a dollop of sweet condensed milk. The glass itself was in a noodle bowl full of hot water. A very complicated process.

Once the rain had eased off a bit we donned waterproofs and went back to the hotel. The locals take these rainstorms in their stride - they all seem to carry cheap plastic ponchos with them that come out as soon as it starts. There's a big motorbike version of the poncho too - the pillion passengers ride around with the back of the rider's poncho over their heads so they can't see where they're going.

Later on we went for dinner at the Da Quy again. I had braised squid with ginger. Coming back we booked ourselves a car and a driver to take us on to Ho Coc Beach on Sunday. It's a place that nobody seems to have heard of, and it cost us 3 million Dong, about £100, but I don't know how else we can get there.