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Sorry to all of you for being so behind on my blog.The internet connection has been awful.I'm currently in the old city of Samrkand in Uzbekistan.It was built up by Timur (Tamerlane).I'm too behind to give u a day by day breakdown of the last few days in China and the last 2 weeks in Kyrgyzstan so I will just give you weekly summaries.I'll begin with Kashgar
Sunday 23rd August-Tuesday 1st September 2009:
On the 23rd wevisited the sunday animal market.Although we got there a bit too early it soon livened up.There were crowds of men congrugating,debating over livestock and gossipping,different animals being led in on foot, by cart and in motor vehicles.There were cows,donkeys,sheep,goats all gathering in the big market sqaure.It was all very chaotic.There was also a little man walking around with goods hidden under a long coat.He kept walking up to the women and opening the coat to reveal all sorts of jewellery and other knick-knacks.Outside were people selling watermelons and all the traffic as animals and men jostled to enter. After that we went to the Sunday market (located in the town) which was massive.They were selling everything from fruit and veg to electronic goods,scarves,jewellery,sweets,souveniers.You name it they had it.There was so much life and colour.Later that day I made my way to the Id Kah Mosque, the big mosque of Western China only to be found that women could not pray there.It was men only entering and all the women were either shopping in the nearby markets or waiting outside.It was all very strange.The old Town of Kashgar was very traditional and interesting, wth lots of stalls,old crumbling houses and apartments,where often whole families would reside in one apartment block and lots of traditional tradesman, like copper smiths,carpenters and cobblers.Unfortunately the Chinese government are already starting to bulldoze the area in a bid to modernise and homogenise it.
The next day we headed for the Karakorum Highway,the highway between Pakistan and China.The 1300km road was built by Chinese and Pakistanis through the mounatins.The construction took 20 years.The highway stretches into Pakistan where you can see the world's second highest peak, K2. We only went as far as TashKorgan on the Chinese side, which is the official border town.We got up to an altitude of about 4053 metres up there.The highest peak we saw was Mount Kongur which is 7719 metres high.We visited the beautiful Lake Karakol which had stunning reflections of the surrounding snow-capped mountains in its clear waters.There were camels around, grazing in the pastures and locals using scythes to cut the grass for hay for the freezing cold winter, when the pass would be snowed in.The mountains were breathtaking.There were green pastures of many hues and galciers running down into streams.There were also a number of yurt camps set up along the way where Kyrgz people tried to sell you souveneirs.TashKorgan is 83% Tajik.Its a very small town that looks like its stuck in a 50's time warp.
On the 26th was the border crossing into Kyrgyzstan.We drove through the Torugart Pass, where we saw beautiful red cliffs and green fields.We had to go through 3 Chinese military checks before reaching the Kyrgz border.The border of Kyrgyzstan was like something out of James Bond.It was snowy,freezing cold and very bleak.It had a real Soviet feel to it.We were greeted by a sniper with giant binoculars and two alsations up on a watchtower and the military were stomping about in long fur-lined coats and heavy boots.That night we bush camped in a beautiful spot in pastured by a mounatin and a little lake.It was freezing!Temperatures dropped below 0.When we woke up in the morning the stream was frozen over.That next morning I had my first yurt vist.The night before some Kyrgz locals had welcomed members of our group into their yurts and so in the morning Tony,Ant,Di,Lyss and myself went to the yurt to take them some cake and watermelon.They had horses grazing outside.Inside the yurt cwas lovely and warm, decorated with thick colourful hangings and felt capets.The two little children devoured the watermelon.The grandmother was making curd and we were invited by one of the men to sit.We were given fermented mare's milk (which has a sour tang to it), lovely fresh bread and curd, which tasted like old cheese.None of it was unpleasent, just unusual. We sat on the roof(something you can do on the Dragoman truck) for some of our journey that day.The scenery was lovely ad we saw marmots, eagles,goats and horses, but the wind was biting.I was covered up to the eyes.We passed Naryn and bush camped.
On the 28th was Dolon Pass,3030 metres high.That night we stayed in a lovely cosey, clean homestay in KochKor.It was much cleaner than a lot of the hotels we'd stayed in!We visited a traditional Kyrgz felt-carpet making factory.The lady there was lovely.She was very modern.Bubbly and flirtatious.
On the 29th we drove to Bishkek and styed there in the Asia Mounatin Hotel.Bishkek is the capital city of Kyrgystan and still has a very Russian feel.You can see how the city is slowly trying to shed the grimness of the soviet era and re-blossom.I visted the Ala-Too Square, Panfilov Park and had a general wonder around.In the evening opposite the main sqaure were busy cafes and restaurants.In one outside disco(basically just a space with a little DJ booth and a disco ball) we watched some locals dancing to songs from Sean Paul, Akon and the like.They were getting really into it and it was hilarious to watch them dry humping eachother and thrusting their pelvises into the air.
The 31st was Kyrgyzstan's Independence Day.In the morning I headed down to the main square.They had a big stage with different artists and groups (dancers,musicians and singers) from around the country performing.The crowd was big.I also watched a small military drill.After tht I drifted off into the big park behind the main square where they had a children's funfair, candy floss (yes I bought some), ice creams, packed cafes and restaurants and a food market. Everyone was in a great mood. For lunch I went to Ankara cafe, run by a Turkish man and his Kyrgz wife.There I met a really sweet Turkmen waiter calle Davran.He was only 19 and very shy.He was practising his Turkis with me.When I told him I was going to Turkmenistan he was vry pleased and recommended their melons.I also met a 28 year old Kyrgz girl who spoke excellent Turkish, called Meryem.I met up with her later and was saddened to hear about how hard her ligfe had been.She was in love with an Uygur Turk and he went to Moscow to earn money for their wedding and their family home.Whilst he was gone she was kidnapped by a Kyrgz man.This is not an uncommon occurance in Kyrgz culture although it is slowly dying out.A man kidnapps a woman he likes for his wife (usually with the parent's consent).Her father (if he didnt consent) has 2 hours to find her and take her back or she can refuse to marry him, but many girls are pressured by their families to consent and some are also raped so they have to marry.There is also a tradition where the man's mother or grandmother places bread all around the yurt and the girl cannot cross the bread as this is a great offence and shame on her family so she has no choice but to stay.This is what happened to Meryem.She fell pregnant after 3 months and true to his word her lover came back for her.He heard she had been married but wouldn't believe it.He came to the Turkish factory she worked at and confronted her. They both cried, but were powerless to do anything about it.In the end his mother foundhim a Turkish girl and he married.Meryem said he was so good looking.All the girls wanted him.She still thinks of him now.Anyway from there it was all downhill.Her husband became an alcoholic under influence from his friends.She got a very well paid job at another Turkish factory and her husband's friends started spreading rumours about her that she was so well paid because she was 'going out' with the boss and that they'de seen her embraced with a Turkish man through the window.Her husband would come home every night in a drunken rage and beat her.When she had their litttle girl because she was dark people insistd it was a Turkish man's baby.Anyway her mother and father fiinally convinced her to divorce this man and now she works in the city while her daughter stays with her mother back in their village.She also works to fund her siblings through college.Her ex husband has not been seen and has never seen his five year old daughter.She said he is now apparently a druggie.It was very sad to hear all of this.She looked worn out and a lot older than her years.
Wednesday 2nd September-Wednesday 9th September 2009:
On the 3rd we made our way to the mountains of Jet-Oghuz, 25 km west of Karakol.On the way we passed the 7 red sandstone cliffs that represent the name of the area(it means 'seven bulls').We crossed five wooden bridges (some of which we had to cross seperately from the truck) to arrive in a beautiful emerald green valley nestled between alpine mountains.It ws stunning.I will put up pictures as soon as I can.It was like something out of The Brothers Grimm.On one side was a crystal clear river of gushing rapids.On the other was forest and snow-capped mountains.On one side of the river one of the local herded his sheep across. We camped for the night. The next day the local horseman came and collected Di,Sharmila,Tony, Alex and myself and we went horse riding with one young local man as our guide.It was amazing.I was on a black horse.We crossed streams, rode up mountains and past traditional yurt camps and the guide Aybek, who was an amzing horseman took us to a secret waterfall hidden in woodland.It lasted about 3 hours.We stayed that night but it snowed and rained and the next day was too cold to camp there so we left.
On the 6th we did a bush camp on the opposite side of Lake Issyk Kul (the southern side).
On the 7th (mummy's bday) we followed the Tulek River up through the Kolmak-Ashu Pass, 3446 metres above sea level.It was wonderful tpo pass through the beautiful, snowy mounatins.We then descended down to Songkul Lake, 3016 metres above sea level.There we stayed at a traditional yurt camp located along the foreshore of lake.Around us the livestock grazed and the people were all very friendly.We even got to watch a traditional game of goat polo.We watched them slaughter a sheep in the halal way, slicing its neck.Then they decapitated it and rode around on horses fighting over its carcass. The aim was to get the sheep into the goal (a circle on the floor). Its usually played betwen villages.I didnt feel at all squemish watching the sheep being slaughtered.We then had a very fatty mutton dinner and settled down for the night.The bedding was immense but it was still absolutely freezing.None of the yurts had a stove except for the kitchen yurt.Needless to say we all slept fully clothed.
8th- Went for a walk.Departed at 12.30.We travelled the southern part of Songkul.Headed through Kara-Kichi Pass, 3364 metres high.Passed a mining area where the lakes were green from the pollution.Camped at Chaek close to a raiver.
9th-Dropped into local hospital to deliver supplies on behalf of Canadian govt.Travel up Tuz-Ashu Pass 3586 metres and then turn onto a road an climb Ala-Bel Pass, which is 3184m in altitude.It was like a winter wonderland in the middle of September.Cows,horses,goats,sheep grazed among the fresh snow.All was white as far as the eye could see, pasture and mounatin side alike, and the snow was deep.It was so surreal.Despite the cold there were yurts where people sat and men were still taking out their animals.On the other sideof the pass where we descended it became warm and green and there were roadside cafes as well as many beehives. Plastic bottles full of honey were being sold all along the roadside.Camped at Toktogul Resevoir.
10th-Moved south.Last bush camp for this leg.Celebrating Marte-eline's bday 36th birthday. Mrs T did a wonderful apple sponge cake and we all stayed up until past 12 (very late for me now!) It was also Keiths last camp so we plagued him with diofferent goodbye songs.
11th-Drive to the town of Osh.Went to the local market there.Being on the border with Uzbekistan this town had a lot more of a middle Eastern feel to it.Also visited Suleyman's Wall, where the Prophet Muhammed (peace be upon him) was said to have prayed .Also in 1497 14 yr old Zahiruddin Babur had a shelter and mosque built on the eastern promontory of the rock.It was very special for me. Many Kyrgz that cant afford or unable to go to Mecca make pilgrimage here.We had a homestay with a lovely Kyrgz family who did us a very nice dinner of rice and roast beef.I got talking to the young girls of the family, one of whom is attending a Turkish college.Also talked to the grandfather who told me that Central Asia was 100%Turkish as wew were all descended from the one Father Turk.lol. His cutest grandchildren were two cheeky twin girls aged around 4.We also celebrated Martelenas bday and said farewell to our Russian guide Olga. Kyrgyzstan was a beautiful country, mostly mountainous, with a significant nomadic community remaining (I was surprised to see the number of yurts still in use). The people are very friendly and they are Muslims, but very relaxed about it.Most pof the young men rode hores rather than motorcycles.Hores are still a widely used mode of transport.
12th-Today we crossed the border into Uzbekistan where the authorities were a lot stricter and more serious than the Kyrgz.Hiro got left behind because of the date on his visa (it was out by 2 days) and he had to join us in Tashkent later on.We stayed in Club 777 hotel in Fergana.It was absolute luxury after 6 consecutive days of camp.A massive room, a tv with Euronews, a pool (although I didnt use it) and a great shower.
13th-drive to Tashkent.first stop-Rishton for ceramic making place.90%of ceramics seen in Uzbekistan oignate from this area.The ceramic plpace was family run.Father passed on to son, uncle passed onto nephews.They came from a long line of potters. We watched them as they made the basic pottery and then had-painted them, free-hand.The plce had a beautiful, serene atmosphere and the ceramics were lovely.I saw an amazingf Qur'an stan with inlays of ceramic flowers in blue and white.Then to Kokand to visit the Khan's palace.It was an impressve tiled structure, built between 1863 and 1873.It was the residence of the Second last Uzbek Khan, before they were ousted by the Russian Tsars. In its original condition it had 7 couryards and 114 rooms(like th Surahs of the Qur'an).It included a big harem for his wives and concubines.Today 6 courtyards and 27 rooms reamin.Drive through Kamchik Pass 2267 m high. Arrived at Tashkent at 9pm.
14th-
15th-Looked around Tashkent, which still has a big Russian influence.A proper big, modern city.Saw the beautifully designed metro stations (each one unique in its design).They are a remnant from the Soviet era. Also went to Chorsu bazaar where they had lots of beautifully fresh fruit and veg and a massive spice market under a domed building.Met an Irish New-Yorker and a Canadian doing a similiar trip to us.Farewell to keith, Marte-elina and Sharmila.Drive to Samarkand
And I'm now tired so I will update you again soon.Please be patient about photos as I have yet to find an adequate internet connection for uploading them.Thanks to all of you for your messages and for following my journey.x
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