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Day 2: Auschwitz
Today was the part of my trip that I have been most interested (and nervous) about, as it is nothing like anything else I am going to see (probably ever again).
I was up and out of the hostel by 8am this morning to get to the bus station in time to get the first shuttle bus to Auschwitz. For the bargain price of 12zloty I took a mini bus the 1.5 hour journey from Krakow to the town of Oswiecim (where the camp is located). Luckily the bus was a bit faster than expected and I managed to get to the museum just before 10, which meant that I didn't have to pay to go in as part of a tour (I was told that this was a better way to take it in). I bought myself a guide book and made my way to the entrance.
First impressions were definitely not what I was expecting. The camp more preserved (and a bit smaller) than I expected. I also didn't realise that it was originally an old army barracks (which gives you an idea of the layout). I entered through the famous main gates (see picture) topped with the phrase "arbeit macht frei" or "work brings freedom", a chilling first insight into how this place was used. All visitors follow a recommended route around the camp, which starts with walking past the assembly square where a marching band would play so that the prisoners coming in would walk at a steady pace, so that the could be counted easily (something I wasn't aware of). Past the square is the start of the blocks, which were used for various different purposes during the camps use, most of which now contain exhibitions (most relating to the camp, but a few about the polish involvement in the war). The first block I went in was actually one of the exhibitions about the polish rebel armies and people who tried to sabotage the nazi regime. It was here were I felt the eeriness of the place for the first time. The exhibition guided you around the first floor and then down to the ground floor where you exit back outside. Considering this exhibition wasn't about the camp itself it isn't included in the tour guide's route so I was the only one around. This was made worse when you walk downstairs and the first sight you see is two lines of mannequin-like stands of striped clothing representing the prisoners being herded to work. Needless to say I got a little bit uncomfortable and quickly made my way back outside.
Back on the guided route I went into the first official block (along with about a dozen tour groups). In here was information about the installation of the camp and where prisoners were taken from. There was also a chilling sight of a memorial urn contains the ashes of some of the victims. The next block along probably had the greatest impact as it really showed the extent of what actually happened here. It contained a number of rooms filled with thousands of glasses, shoes, suitcases, and most horrific of all to see, human hair, from the victims (and that is only a fraction of what was found). I found it even more disturbing that people were taking pictures of these (pictures of the outside are one thing).
After this the next two blocks contained photographs and information about the every day life of the prisoners, all of which was just as, if not more, horrific as is made out in movies about the holocaust - working for 12 hours at least with little food and no breaks, not even to relieve themselves (many of the prisoners died from shear exhaustion and starvation).
The last block inside the main fenced sight is called the "Death block" which is where prisoners were sentenced to death for crimes within the camp (for something as small as steeling an apple). They would be kept in tiny cells before sentencing, after which they were lined up outside against a wall ("death wall") and shot. The remains of the wall is now covered in flowers and candles as a shrine to these victims.
The main route then guides you back to the other end of the camp and out past the final building, the gas chamber and crematorium. Needless to say how disturbing this was to see (especially from the inside).
After 2 hours of walking I found myself back at the museum entrance. From here I got the connecting bus to the second camp. Auschwitz II Birkenau. If I thought Auschwitz was chilling, Birkenau was even worse. Unlike the first camp which has undergone some reconstruction by the museum, Birkenau remains untouched since the war. The site is at least 5 times the size of the first camp and is very exposed (even more visible as only about 20% of the buildings are still standing). Walking around was very harrowing, especially the outlined route takes you along the same path the prisoners would have walked, most of who would have gone straight to the gas chambers. The main route, followed by the guides, only covers a small fraction of the camp. However, if you follow the signs and the guide book you can walk around the entire camp and really see just how massive it is, and the extent of the crimes that were carried out. Unfortunately, as it isnt part of the guided tours most people wont bother to see this, and that meant that i was walking around this area alone (which definitely made the experience more eerie. At the very top of the camp there was an exhibition in the old sauna building showing what happened to the prisoners who were deemed fit to work during the selection process when they arrived (all other prisoners were sent strait to the gas chambers). These prisoners were forced to shower, have their heads shaved and disinfected all before being given their uniforms and tattooed with their ID number. The whole prices could take up to 12 hours (most of which was spent without clothes and exposed to the cold). Back outside I headed back down to the entrance, walking along the other side of the camp to most of the tours. Most of the buildings on this side are just piles of rubble so you can see just how far the camp stretches. So after about an hour and a half walking around I had completed my tour of the camp and made my way back to the first camp and to the bus back to krakow. After 4 hours of walking and taking in everything that I saw, and a further 1.5 hours on the bus back to the city, by the time I got back to the hostel I was quite drained (it was past 5 by now anyway). I spoke to my Danish friend about my day for a bit and then went to get some traditional Zapikani (basically a pizza topped baguette) and then relaxed in the lounge before heading to bed.
So there you have my second day. I apologise for the length of this post, there was so much to say about the camp. Even though it was draining I am glad I saw it as its important to see what happened and to remember this part of history.
I hope you found this interesting.
More blogging tomorrow.
Lois x
- comments
Momma Bear I am very proud of you - to do this all by yourself was so brave and I cried all the way through your blog. Keep the posts going - they are so good xx
throughthelookingglass Aw thanks mum. It wasn't too bad overall, glad I went. X
Pappa Bear lois that was quite eerie although interesting now go and see some nice places
Momma bear come on steven and lauren - comment on lois' blog!!