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A common question about safaris in Africa refers to preference: Masai Mara or Serengeti? Whilst named and often visited separately, they are part of the same ecosystem and only really differ depending on the migration. For us: where the Masai Mara was rammed with animal sightings, the Serengeti was more sparsely populated but offered a lot more action.
The first afternoon game drive alone delivered leopards dragging an antelope carcass up and down a tree, and two male giraffe whipping each other with their heads. While the latter looked comical, it was a genuine life-or-death situation. If either one was knocked onto their side, they would be incapable of standing back up and thus easy dinner for any predator. Camping that night was in the middle of the National Park: an unfenced campsite where any wild animal could wander in and hunt mzungu. Of course come breakfast time the conspiracy theories were flying thick and fast: someone heard elephants, another was sure lions had prowled the campsite while a third was convinced they had heard the hyenas laugh. Needless to say no one was brave enough to pee outside, and more than one tent played host to adrenaline-fuelled insomniacs.
Once on safari again we stumbled across a small pride of 4 male lions, who we watched until someone noticed hyenas chasing gazelle on the horizon. Like a predator selecting its prey; we zeroed in on one and floored it across the plains in pursuit of the laughing assassin. Surprisingly, we couldn't keep up (hyenas are fast!) but we could see him slowly reeling in its prey. Our next sight - once we'd caught up - was that of one of the young lions carrying the gazelle carcass happily, and the hyena sulking along in its wake. The lion had poached the hyena's kill! No one was expecting that. As the thief enjoyed his free breakfast, the hyena sat nearby hoping for some scraps. Alas; none left! So our hungry friend started after another gazelle, nearly chased it straight into the jaws of another lion, and eventually disappeared over the horizon in pursuit of the elusive antelope. During the escapades we had been cheering in support of either predator or prey - depending on how morbid we were. I was emphatic for a hyena victory... circle of life and all that! Seriously energetic start to the day!
Other highlights included a mother and two baby elephants walking right at and then straight past us - passing mere metres from truck (they were close enough to touch, but no one dared to so much as breathe until they were 10-15m away again). We also had an elephant visit our campsite the second night while we were still awake: Sjane spent the next 15 minutes shaking me and OMG!-ing me to keep me awake. The porn series also continued upon arrival at the Ngorongoro Crater; this time a pair of ostrich copulated for two whole seconds after a complicated and impressive courtship dance. Finally our Serengeti adventures completed with a family of elephants maintaining a road block (which one of our drivers decided to disassemble by revving his Land Rover loudly and charging straight through the congregation) and photographing yawning hippos by the lake for lunch (yet another magnificent picnic spot).
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