Cartagena, Cartagena, what can I say? Well for a start, we liked it so much that we extended our stay for an extra two days. Lovely, lovely city.
A coastal city which of course means beaches, but more impressive than the beaches (which actually aren't that impressive, at least not the ones we visited), was the old colonial walled city. Now many a city bills itself as one with splendid colonial architecture and all, but I'm not sure too many can boast the way Cartagena can. What's so impressive is not only the size of the old city, but also of the fantastic condition these buildings are in and the icing on the cake is that it's all encircled by a fortified wall. The only other place I can compare it to, is the centre of Havana, but in this case it what Havana could look like. Fantastic!
So what did we get up to? Not much in many ways, but that was part of the fun. With the weather returning to a respectable, plus 30 after the 'chilly' average of 19 or so in Bogota, it was time to break out the short pants, flip flops, sunglasses and get wandering. As the Lonely Planet stated, this is the one place you can dispense with books and guides and simply wander the streets day and night in search of delights and so that's what we did by and large.
Now as already described, the entire old city is a delight, but one of the first joys we discovered lurking round one corner was the Cartagena outpost of Cafe Del Mar. Now I know the original Ibiza version would probably take some beating, but I'd wager a few of my British pounds to say this might well do just that. At least in terms of location. Perched in a corner of the old city, atop the ramparts to the west, you will find this wonderfully located bar. With fantastic views of the new city, the ocean and perfectly placed for the sunset, I'm not sure you could get a better location. The perfect sunset duly arrived and with beer in hand, the quest for relaxation was complete. Marvellous!!
So what else did we get up to? Well outside of spending some chill-out time on the rooftop pool of the wonderful Casa Lola boutique hotel, we managed to eat a lovely lunch at the cost of about a fiver (for two) at a throughly local rough and ready joint. Spend a morning wandering round the fort of Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, to give it it's full name. Spain's greatest colonial military fort. Which in the main was built to protect the city from plunder by pirates and the likes of Sir Frances Drake and his ilk. Very interesting place and as Becky remarked, refreshingly open to walk about in these times of overzealous health and safety officers. Here if you want to climb the ramparts and plunge down the other side to your death because there is nothing to stop you, then go ahead cowboy. Or walk about in a pitch dark tunnel about 5'10 in height, please be their guest. Like I said, refreshing outlook and good fun.
One other interesting thing of note on this excursion. Some of you who've been out and about with me will know that on occasion I get mistaken for various djs i might have a passing resemblance to or not. Or will have noticed random Japanese tourists take pictures of me for no apparent reason (outside of my debonoir good looks of course). Well the phenomenon reapearred at old San Felipe. On no less than THREE occasions in a matter of about 30 mins was a request made for a picture of my goodself with a random stranger. Much to my bemusement and Becky's amusement I obliged and smiled. Hmmm...
We also managed to visit another fort, Fuerte de San Fernando on the nearby island of Isla de Tierrabomba. Again built in defence of the city, but this time it was the entrance to the port that was being defended. However, as interesting as the fort, tour and tourguide were (more on that in a bit), getting there and back was almost as interesting.
Having survived the not unusual pay me much more for this journey than it really costs attempt, we thought we were entitled to a little break. However, it seems that for some reason, boats and rain seem to be the perfect mix for us on this trip. Thirty degree heat on the way to the port, but once aboard any given boat, you can be sure the rain will arrive before long. It did. So we are waiting on a small boat (waiting for what we are not sure), clearly the only tourists seemingly making this journey, enjoying the sensation of rain dripping from the leaky canvas supposedly there to protect us from such elements. Of course once moving this only results in more rain at an increasing velocity, being slammed into ones chops. Think we might give the boat trips a break for a bit. Well at least until we reach the Amazon. What could go wrong there?
Anyway, back to the island and tour. Upon landing (where exactly we weren't sure), we were surrounded by a number of local gentlemen helpfully 'offering' their services as guides. We politely tried to decline and headed off towards where we hoped the fort was. One persistent gentlemen insisted on walking ahead of us rambling on in Spanish to helpfully make sure we made it to our destination. Most gentlemanly of the kind sir to offer visitors this wonderful free service.
Anyway, we eventually arrived after about a 10 min walk, acquired a new guide who this time spoke English. I inquired where he learnt the Queen's English so fluently and he informed me he'd learnt it in New York before he got deported some time back. I inquired no more about such matters and moved on. As it goes, he was a local guy called Jose Louis and he wasn't half bad as a guide, although Becky had trouble understanding anything he said. Nevertheless, the 'donation' offered by us for his kind service was not begrudgingly given due to his knowledge of his subject. However, we were forced to plead poverty when it came to the gentlemen who had kindly 'shown us' the way earlier and another fellow who seemed to want someting simply for hanging about for a bit. Anyway, the fort was cool and it was a little adventure for the both of us.
The rest of the time? More chilling and it was nice to be based at one place for a few days to do just that.
Right enough from me, it's time for me to look out of the bus window at the carnival prep that is on view as we head off to the little fishing village of Taganga.
Hasta luego!!
G