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13/02/2013
Got a lift into the airport in one of Katmandu's taxis which are ALL knackered old Suzuki swifts off about 20 year ago. Didn't even have seatbelts in the back. Lawrence had a bit of difficulty in the airport after he couldn't carry on his hiking poles nor bungee cord from the trek so he had to put them in the hold. He also got his bag searched at customs for no apparent reason to which he was fuming about. He didn't half stand his ground though, and gave them thee most agro back. Always dodgey ground but was funny to watch. We went through into the waiting area and Lawrence's flight to Dehli got called, gave the lad a healthy handshake and a manhug and said if he was ever in town to drop me a line.
I went to my gate and got greeted by a druk air employee, who said 'are you Mark?', turns out this was the guy I had emailed, Ram, and he said he had got my email. We then bordered the smallest plane I have ever been on. It didn't even need any steps just a fold down door.
There was one old geezer with grey hair dressed in a Burberry mac, a tweed jacket, a Ralph Lauren jumper and a nice shirt underneath. Thought he was worth a few bob, specially if he's going on holidays to Bhutan. Then there was me, Mark Laws, expert budget backpacker from Sunderland, lives off the cheapest food and skratiest food you could find.
The flight was only a short one, about an hour, and we flew past Mt. Everest. Surprisingly didn't look as tall as I thought it would be, but was still gigantic. We soon descended and dodged a ridge of a mountain before swooping around in the valley to align with the run way. Got off the plane and it was a perfect sunny day, all the land was an orangey brown and it was full of buildings with specially carved roofs, every single one of em. Was so cool and authetic. After about 3 years of waiting my dream had become a reality. I was in Bhutan and I couldn't believe it.
The airport was carved too, and equally impressive inside, with beautiful Tibetan style murals on the wall. All the men were dressed in the Bhutanese official dress, the goh, which came up only knee high, where they wore knee high socks underneath. This was the moment of truth, but low and behold the visa got stamped…. And I was in! officially in!
I came out of the entrance and there were dozens of guides, all dressed in their gohs too, all waiting for their customers. I was greeted by Kharma, my tour guide, who was rocking some aviators with his goh, trendy lol. He was extremely courteous and introduced me to the driver 'Mr. Jimmy' and lead me a posh as f*** air conned 4x4 with my own seat and arm rest etc in the back. This was going to be the royal treatment! The lads were really sound and were no older than 28. Kharma then gave me an introduction into Bhutan, and its history. Apparently Bhutan is the British name meaning high land, and that Druk was its old name meaning dragon. Learnt the Bhutanese for hello which was Khuzu-zang-pular.
I was taken to a massive Dzong, which is a massive fortress, which is now half used by the religious leaders and half for administrative purposes. Got taught about the geezer who built it, who was some Tibetan who left Tibet after losing an election and decided to lead Bhutan instead. He was a great leader and was instated as the King and the Tibetans got jealous, hence many conflicts with them in past years. Also learnt about some Abbot who united the country after many wars between different provinces.
We went inside and saw some beautiful paintings of four protecting gods of some sort, one which protects each angle. The for who protects was especially ferocious and had an angry face and a knife ready to attack as apparently evil spirts normally come from the south when attacking (India). There was also another one of a bird on top of a rabbit on top of a monkey on top an elephant, who all claimed rights to a tree for all different reasons. In the end they all decided to share. Was a good parable. Learnt about how good deeds get a white dot, and bad deeds get a black dot in the palm of your hand, which are totted up on your death, as well as the 6 realms of life hell and heaven etc, and how Buddha was a normal man like me and you who was so perfect he became enlightened and turned into a God. It may sound like a borning history lesson which just went on and on but it was actually interesting as f***. Kharma made it really interesting at all times, and other guides which people were going around with just looked boring. Was so fortunate to be with this fella.
We then went to a specially designated restaurant where all the tourists started pilling in. Was a real charming place and the food was UNREALLL! Hands down the nicest food of the trip by far. And it was a help your self jobby too. Had some awesome pink rice, pork and vegetables, dhal soup, pumpkin and some awesome doughy bread which was shaped like a somosa called batura. Got a nice local beer to wash it down called Druk 11,000. Now that's a name for ya! It was an 8% bad boy as well. There was a group of old gannies on the table over, Americans, and one of them was saying how they were gonna be here for 2 weeks! Phawww hahaha get them dollars ready!
We then drove from Paro new town, to Paro old town, which was the next street over. Haha was so funny. We eventually rocked up in Thimpu, the capital of Bhutan, before stopping at some random temple and some bridge. Apparently some Buddhist guy built 108 bridges in one day back in the day. Sounds dubious to me! Also learnt how different coloured prayer flags represent different wishes, for example good health or good fortune. Then came across three different stoopas, one for Bhutan, Tibet and Nepal, which each houses the ashes of a Budhist master from that region.
In Thimpu we visited the world's largest sitting down Budha. It was a massive golden statue. The grounds around it were still being being, and the photo opportunity wasn't as good as the light was on its back but it was still amazing.
We then visited a massive stoopa in town which people walk around for the white dot. You are only meant to do an odd number so we done one lap. Kharma said we do clockwise to defeat the muslims, who go round anti clock wise in Mecca. There was also the prayer wheels which had seen all over Nepal, big ones and hand held ones. Kharma said the OAPs bring packed lunches and sit all day spinning them, desperately trying to get some good deeds before they pass away. Spinning them apparently releases the mantra of Buddha and is seen as a good deed.
After we visited a small conservatory which housed the nation animal of Bhutan, the takin, which some Budhist master apparently invented back in the day by bringing together the head of a goat and the body of a cow when some doubters were dubious about how powerful he was. We fed the takin and there was also some deer and reindeers in there too. We then drove to another Dzong where we passed houses with giant paintings of penises on the wall. This is a good omen for women who are trying for a baby. We passed some pathetic security to enter the Dzong. It was another amazing fortress which an an amazing courtyard. Inside the religious bit there was a massive Buddha as well as thousands of little ones all around. Apparently in Buddhism anyone can become a Buddha and the spiritual leaders don't even know how many there are.
Afterwards Kharma took me to a shop where I bought a traditional goh for $55. Looking back this was actually a tourist shop and wasn't a local one. Meaning the price was inflated by around $20. The colours were more vivid and I bought a one which was a real Joseph and Technicolour dream coat style!!! I wanted a plain checky one like the locals but they didn't have it.
Checked into room after that and then for a short walk around the capital. Loads of people were dressed in their gohs and it was really authentic, it wasn't just the guides for show for the tourists. The owner of the company came to have dinner with me after at a really fancy restaurant. Felt like a VIP! Got some local beer called red panda. Chatted on with another tourist called Yoko from Japan. Went back to my plush hotel room which had amazing views of the city. This was the good life!!!!!
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