Musgrave Harbour is a town of 1300 people on the north east coast of Newfoundland. It is a place founded on the bones of cod the spirits of which have now returned to haunt the souls of many of the fishermen. Following the moratorium on cod established in 1992, many of the fishers had no choice but to sell their cod licenses back to the government. A few years ago, the fishery was opened experimentally, with 3 fishermen in a boat allowed to take 5 cod each per trip, but this limited quantity is not sufficient to make the fishery economically viable again. Now many of the young people that would have taken over their father's fishing licenses have moved and will continue to move to Alberta to work on the oil rigs, and the old fishermen sit by the windows or work in the yard, keeping an eye on the bay so they can race to the wharf when a long-liner rigged for shrimp or capelin comes into the harbour. There they will stand around, leaning on their pickups and smoking cigarettes, talking about the capelin catch and dreaming about the days when the cod were so numerous in the harbour that their English ancestors could barely sail through the waters. More from Newfoundland to come...