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Vientiane
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We travelled to Vientiane in the same mini van but this time every seat was full and we were squashed in with lots of other travelers.
Luckily it was not a bad journey and after meandering down through the remaining mountain ranges we opened out onto a Plateau and spent the final three hours speeding through red clay dust roads.
These were not the best to travel on and after we hit the roof a few times bouncing in and out of what they call pot holes and we would call bone breaking craters, then nodding off and being woken with our heads bouncing off the windows, we arrived at Vientiane bus station, jumped in a Tuk-Tuk which didn't look as though it would start once ourselves and our luggage were in and headed to the main boulevard overlooking the Mekong to where most of the accommodation could be found.
After finding most of the guesthouses full or overpriced we discovered a pleasant hotel tucked up a side street and booked a spacious room with a comfy bed, TV, free Wifi (when it worked), a bath (wooh hoo) and buffet breakfast included. It was just what we needed for a couple of relaxing days. As we arrived quite early in the day we decided to go out and explore and take in as many of the monuments as we could.
Through a millennium of history Vientiane was variously controlled, ravaged and looted by the Vietnamese, Burmese, Siamese and Khmers. When Laos became a French protectorate at the end of the 19th Century, it was rebuilt and renamed as the capital. The city today feels more like a town and the French colonial feel lingers on and is especially apparent in the architectural refinement and selection of cuisine. There are three main streets parallel to the Mekong that form the Inner city and where most of the guesthouses, bars and restaurants are located. These are linked by a series of tree lined boulevards that provide a perfect environment for the important monuments and structures in Laos history.
The first of these was WAT SI SAKET which is the oldest temple in Vientiane built in 1818 by King Anouvong. It was built in the Siamese (Thai) style of Buddhist architecture, with a surrounding terrace and an ornate five-tiered roof.
The gardens contain a series of shrines alongside a life size Gold Buddha and other smaller deities. Also in the garden is the drum house which holds a huge bongo style drum. These drums are called "Ho-ko" or "Dharma Drum" and are said to symbolize the "commanding voice of the Buddha."
The entrance is adorned with large Naga (mystical dragons) which can be found on most Buddhist temples, but the outstanding unique features were to be found on the inside cloister walls. There are hundreds of small niches which contain more than 2000 silver and ceramic Buddha images with more than 300 seated and standing Buddha's of varying age (15th - 19th century), size and material resting on long shelves below, it is an amazing sight and a very special place.
The next monument on the walking tour is PATUXAI literally meaning Victory Gate or Gate of Triumph. We walked the mile and half along the main highway which was unbelievably clean and European. Palm fringed with a lawned central reservation that was lined with wrought iron lampposts leading all the way to the imposing sight of Patuxai that is likened to the Arc de Triomphe.
Patuxai was built during the turbulent history of Laos. The monument was known as "Anousavali" (literal meaning "memory") and was built after World War II in memory of the Laotian soldiers who died in various wars and during independence from France in 1949. Strange that it closely resembles a famous French monument/structure.
It has five towers that represent the five principles of coexistence among nations of the world. They are also representative of the five Buddhist principles of "thoughtful amiability, flexibility, honesty, honour and prosperity".
There are gateways or archways on four sides orientated towards the four cardinal directions, the underside of each are highly decorated with intricate paintings and mouldings in Gold, red and duck egg blue and although they have worn over time are still impressive.
In front of each gate/arch, there is a pond. The four ponds represent the open section of a lotus flower (representing reverence of Laotians to the brave warriors of the nation).
The four corners of the gateways are adorned by statues of a Naga King (mythical symbol of Laos), with a depiction signifying spraying of a jet of water (suggesting nature, fertility, welfare and happiness) into the ponds on the ground.
The surrounding fountains are impressive and beautiful and we enjoyed watching the display as the water danced overhead in patterns and sprays providing a percussion and symphony and setting a tone and drama narrating history and belief.
Also in the gardens is an ornate gold and red pagoda which houses the Golden World Peace gong which is stunning even if slightly incongruous.
After time spent admiring the grandeur with a rum and raison cone we walked the final three miles to the piece de resistance PHA THAT LUANG.
The approach is nowhere near as clean and grand as the other highways and would be more at home in an Indian city but as we reached the brow of the hill the sight that confronted us was breathtaking. Set back in a huge gardened area is a prodigious Gold Stupa; Pha That Luang which is understandably regarded as the most important national monument in Laos and a national symbol of both Buddhist religion and sovereignty.
Pha That Luang according to the Lao people was originally built as an Indic temple in the 3rd century. Buddhist missionaries from the Mauryan Empire are said to have been sent by the Emperor Ashoka to bring what is believed to be the breast bone of Lord Buddha to the stupa.
The stupa today consists of three levels, each conveying a reflection of part of the Buddhist doctrine. The first level is 223 feet by 226 feet, the second is 157 feet along each side and the third level is 98 feet along each side. From ground to pinnacle Pha That Luang is 147.6 feet high and a truly wondrous sight especially when the late afternoon sun is shining directly onto its surface and bathing the whole area in a pool of golden light reflecting the sunset. It was captivating made more so by the chanting of the orange-hued monks undertaking afternoon prayer and we sat amongst the worshippers allowing ourselves to be drawn into the moment and an almost meditative state.
There are two remaining Wat that surround the Stupa, Wat That Luang Tai and Wat That Luang Neua, both of which are unbelievable. Pagoda style with splendiferous symmetrical features and decorated in the usual cream, red and gold embellished with mouldings and carvings and incandescent friezes that are picture perfect. One of the Wat's has staircase banisters made of two impressive Naga with towering Buddha's on plinths either side, truly remarkable works of art in themselves.
Last but not least sitting in front of the Stupa is an Unknown Soldier statue high on a podium overseeing the whole sight said to commemorate the pathet Lao who died during the second indochina war. There is another greater monument in Vientiane with the same purpose which we did not get to see.
Although we are not religious we thoroughly enjoyed and appreciated the visit here it is understandable that it is held in such high regard. The architecture alone could keep us engrossed for hours as everywhere we looked there was a new discovery of aesthetics.
We dragged ourselves away and avoided the group of tempting street stalls billowing out so many delicious scents as we wanted to make sunset over the Mekong. Deciding it was too far too walk in the allotted time we hailed a jumbo, bargained and were soon hurtling back through the busy streets towards the river as if the drivers life or at least in his mind his tip depended on it. As we pulled up we could see the area was a hive of activity in complete contrast to the other subdued stretches.
Families had gathered to enjoy a stroll in the evening sun and picnic on the grassy areas. There were people of all ages taking advantage of the gym equipment that is laid out in another area and happily exercising as the temperature finally started to cool. There was a skate park for teenagers and a kiddie's park with swings and a slide. There were volleyball nets and designated football pitches which were all full of young lads in various premiership football tops. This really is a place for everyone to enjoy.
It was a breath of fresh air and a pleasure to observe and be part of. It made us think back to home and how long something like this would last before being vandalized or taken over by gangs so that people were too intimidated to make use of it. We are apparently in the under developed country yet they have got so many things right, the family and community spirit we have witnessed throughout Asia is second to none and even though we are not that old we can remember a time when this used to be the case at home …. When did it all change??
Anyway …
We made our way to the promenade that was still under construction like so many things throughout Laos and watched as the burning red sun set like a falling fireball into the river. We joined the courting couples and strolled hand in hand caught in the romance of the moment.
The next day we were going to move on but we decided to take advantage of the comfy bed and have a much needed Pyjama day. After rising early for the buffet breakfast and gorging on fruit, toast, eggs, hot dog sausage, ham and fried rice we crawled back into bed to watch movies and happily doze in and out of sleep.
In the afternoon we went for another stroll but this time with no agenda preferring to soak up the atmosphere and happenings of daily life. We did come across another couple of effulgent temples with the usual resplendent grandeur and giant sized Buddha but with some particularly impressive artwork depicting scenes from Buddhist teachings adorning the ceilings and walls. We also found the bakeries and couldn't resist stopping off for Arabica coffee and croissants.
The main objective of the day was to book our bus tickets but we were greeted with the familiar wave of the hand and told "no need to book just go to the bus station."
This is a thing we love and hate even after travelling for so long and becoming incredibly laid back. There is still an instinct to plan and be in control and we can't, we just have to go with the flow and be positive and believe that whatever happens will all be good and to be fair it has been, even with a little short lived stress at times.
We still haven't made our minds up about Vientiane. Overall we enjoyed the architecture and the atmosphere but feel like we are missing something we can't put our finger on. It is hard to build up a big picture of a place in such a short stay but we felt there was nothing else to stay for. The prices being a city are higher and to be honest not really justified. In all honesty if we returned to Laos we would probably not return here.
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