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Vang Vieng
Pop 25,000
The next morning we loaded our bags and climbed into the mini bus for our four hour journey to Vang Vieng. We were lucky as we had ten seats for six of us so we spread out and settled down for the drive.
It turned out to be one of the worst trips yet as the roads were extremely winding and the driver wasn't great at steering around them or going slow. The saving grace was again the scenery as we weaved down, around and through the mountains and forests, unfortunately the last thing we felt like doing when very queasy was looking out of the window and watching the world flash by in a blur but after stopping for lunch the roads became less erratic and so did the driving and we finally made it to Vang Vieng in one piece.
We were dropped on the main road which has been dubbed Koh San Road after the original in Bangkok. We can only imagine this is because of the mass traveler scene it now houses and the chaos that ensues here due to this. After trying a few of the guest houses on this drag and them all being full we headed along a side street and found a great place with no name for a good price.
We settled in briefly and then went for a wander around town. The action is concentrated into three dusty streets off the main road where many of the bars, eateries and guesthouses can be found. There is one main street filled with what they call video bars and we found it really strange to find these packed with people all day watching re-runs of friends and family guy, it was like a flash back to 80's Costa Del Sol but they played "Only fools and horses". Interspersed along these streets are shops selling all the usual sunglasses, t-shirts and vests (but with a new tubing logo) and other necessities and essentials. There is a fabulous bakery and a few tour shops which double as book shops. The two outer areas found at either end of Koh San are reserved for local homes and temples. The rest of the action is centered along the river which is lined with stilt hut cabanas and smaller bar/restaurants.
I think we should explain before going any further, many people who have visited before the tourists landed think Vang Vieng is a paradise lost. The scenery is second to none and is a close up version of what we have had the pleasure of viewing since entering Laos but it has become overshadowed by the influx of tourists many very young, drinking ridiculous amounts of alcohol and smoking copious amounts of weed. Many get drawn into the consumption of happy shakes (magic mushroom/cannabis concoctions of unknown strength) then get into an inner tube and begin floating down the river to drink and smoke more.
We headed down to the river to see if we could catch a glimpse of the main attraction and to see what draws all the youngsters to the area, how old do we consider ourselves to be to use the word youngsters?.
Once along the Nam Song River first and foremost we were blown away by the mountain views and then drawn to the activities being performed around us. The opposite river bank was filled with stilted bamboo weave and solid wooden huts, The two sides were connected by a dodgy looking bamboo bridge that was unbelievably secure as locals were riding their motorbikes over with no fear followed by tourists on hired bicycles and foot. There were many people in kayaks paddling their way downstream avoiding the rocks and ducks and enjoying splashing each other all the way. There were the Hot Air balloons soaring high filled with the generation that would rather observe the mayhem from the sky than take to the water, another amazing way to view the scenery. We watched the sun go down as the kids played in the sand and bedraggled tubers and kayakers stumbled clumsily onto dry land, before we headed back into town for a night of chilling.
We found a bar/restaurant called Sakura and sat at the front on a raised area of cushions with a small table and tucked into falafel, pitta and salad. It was extremely tasty and a welcome change from noodle soup (as much as we love it.) We spent the rest of the evening there taking advantage of the free wifi and the top tunes supplied by the English guy who was working behind the bar, while we sat back and observed the carnage that ensued around us. (More than once I kicked into Mother Mode as one young girl after another came in and out, eyes rolled in the back of their heads and zigzagging across the roads not knowing what planet they were on.)
The next day we decided rather than jump feet first into the mayhem we would soak up the scenery and immerse ourselves gently into the trekking culture before the drinking one.
Heading over the creative, genius constructed and somewhat scary Bamboo Bridge and past the cabanas, being careful not to wake the hangovers in hammock's that hung from every one, we were out into the open farmland.
The fields were laid out as per paddies but had already been harvested so were left to dry until the time would come for the crop rotation to begin when they would be flooded and replanted. It was like walking through fields of gold, seeming never ending, until we looked skywards and were faced with huge limestone karsts rising out of the lush jungle/rainforest. We walked a couple of miles over this terrain managing to avoid the huge pig that was trying to make its escape from the back of a pick-up truck and the clusters of chickens following us for a feed before we reached the edge of the forest.
We had seen people assailing a small rock face, disappearing then reappearing on the summit where they could view the whole town, this had got amazing photo written all over it so we headed in the general direction.
We should have realized that this had already been capitalized and as we got closer we could see a local man, hand held out charging money to make the climb. Now we weighed up the pro's and con's and decided that we could live without making the climb as it was steep, slippery and down right dangerous and that the photo wasn't worth the money or health risk.
The rest of the day followed trend, after reaching the three different caves and high payment being demanded for entry to each we decided not to bother and by the negative feedback received from other travelers we're glad we didn't. Instead we enjoyed the day walking through the dense forest admiring close up the spiky coconut palms, huge overhanging banana palms with their vast supply of tiny green fruits and towering tree canopy's opening high in the air like delicate green paper parasols providing shelter and aesthetics drawing us further into exploring and observing daily life along the river and villages and being taken aback by the wildlife and size and variety of the many butterflies.
By the time we had done a giant full circle and got back to the river we had walked 7 miles the sun was beating down and we were shattered but content with the day's efforts.
We found the more secure public bridge similar to the metal/bamboo/wood structure in Luang Prabang and decided to cross here and amble up the other side of the river. We made it across only to be greeted again with an outstretched hand for a bridge toll so we refused on principle, turned around, walked back across and strolled down the riverbank and over the free bridge that was closer to home.
The food was the same selection on every menu and we were overjoyed when we found a little locals place tucked out of the way that served the most delicious, satisfying Red Curry Soup. It was packed with potatoes, onions, green beans and carrots finished with red curry paste and coconut milk and only cost 80p for a substantial bowl full with rice. There is a traditional Laos dish called Laap or Laarp. It is minced Chicken/pork/beef or fish mixed with fresh mint leaves and a stunning soy/oil/lime dressing. It is then served with sticky rice which comes in a small wicker pot with a lid. It was fabulous and we went to this place 3 out of the 4 nights we were here.
The day had finally arrived to take our tubing trip. We were like two big kids as we went to register and collect our inner tube. We read the comically translated signs that stated we were basically responsible for every eventuality and it could be a very expensive day if rules were not adhered to. We signed our names and climbed in the back of a jumbo (a motorbike taxi, bigger than a Tuk-Tuk smaller than a sawngthaew) with another 9 kids all raring to be thrown into binge drinking chaos.
We arrived at the start line a few hundred yards after the drop off point and decided to start the day with a Large Beer Laos while watching the other revelers that were already in full swing, literally in full swing as the bars had set up ropes and bamboo and other swings for the steady queue of drunken volunteers to drop off into the river. This was funny, cringe worthy and then down right uncomfortable to watch as one after another had to use their somewhat marred judgment as when to release the rope and make the drop. Needless to say there were a few injuries incurred some quite serious and we were thankful that we had gone past the time in life when these things seemed appealing although if we hadn't of left before consuming more beer it may of been a different story! :0)
We finally built up the courage to just go for it, launched ourselves into the tube across the river and never stopped laughing. There are a series of little shacks all along the river pumping out "banging Tunes" and "party pop music" and the trick is to choose the one that appeals, paddle like crazy to get close enough and then catch the plastic bottle filled with water and attached to a rope so that you can be pulled in. It's hilarious especially when you're at the 5th or 6th bar and your judgment is a little out, although not that out as we managed to avoid the bars with signs for "Free joints and Happy Shakes" and stuck to free shots of Lao Lao (rice brewed whisky/spirit???) and big bottles of beer.
We met some great people, tried to knock cans over with a catapult, got daubed in neon face paints, danced, laughed, laughed some more, got take out's from the last bar and held onto each other just relaxing and taking in the phenomenal scenery until the beer ran out and so did time. We teamed up and joined our tubes together. Rod laid back head first paddling with his arms with his legs over my shoulders, me holding onto Rod's feet laid back kicking my legs for dear life, we were brilliant and we built up a great speed passing loads of other tubers who couldn't stop laughing at us and couldn't catch us as much as they tried. They had the last laugh though as they didn't go to the end instead preferring to take the easy option and jump in a Tuk-Tuk but we saw it through becoming those unsteady people we had watched on our first day clambering out of the water like drowned rats and we were so glad we did as we loved every minute.
After a quick shower and change we were back out and had a wicked night playing pool and steadily drinking the bar dry with our new found friends from would you believe Maybank and Milton … you can't go anywhere without bumping into a Stokie … Instead of finishing the night with a kebab we hit the bakery and stuffed ourselves with the best Banana muffin we've ever tasted. It was a perfect end to an excellent day.
The final day was spent sat in front of the TV watching family guy and Friends (we finally got their purpose) and stuffing our faces with baguettes and any stodge that would take the hangovers away repeating to ourselves the age old morning after saying "We're never drinking again"
We enjoyed Vang Vieng for many different reasons. We went a bit further afield and discovered a more traditional way of life, the scenery is breathtaking and it was great to experience something so different and as we joke 'Get down with the kids". Vang Vieng is not a Laos village any more it's a tourist town and the negative attitudes of the locals reflect what they have had to endure during this transition.
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