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24th - 26th June Dokkum and Lauwersoog
There is a balance to be made when unfavourable weather persists, to push on and spend days at a less interesting location possibly or to stay put and become immune to the attractions while others are going on to the unknown. We felt this in Leeuwarden which had been full of attractions but we had beem told that Dokkum, our next stop, was well up in the prettiness stakes.
The passage wound through canals which were becoming shallower by the hour but now that the low depth alarm had been switched off it all seemed very easy and in any case we had learnt that the bottom was nearly always soft mud which we could skim over with a little more power if need be - a kind of thick blancmange consistency I imagined - but not pink.
Two days at Dokkum just about did it, time to paint and continue to be amazed at the endless stream of children and young chatting at the tops of their voices while careering along on their dreadnought bicycles charging to and from school - and at the same time leaving a wake of frightened motorists who dare get anywhere near them. I have this lovely memory of very tall girls riding in twos or fours, their long blond hair reaching halfway down their backs or flying out in the wind. What a sense of vivacity and freedom.
The weather pattern began to hint at better things to come which meant moving on to Lauwersoog which is the gateway to the Frisian Islands and out into the North Sea. The canal sides turned slowly from piled headings to rush beds lining dedicated nature reserves where Marsh Harriers were more frequent - often being mobbed by brave smaller birds. There were more shallow patches en route but carefully sticking to the middle of the canal where possible and observing the buoyed channels particularly in the Lauwersmeer meant no problems where the water is wide enough to mislead the unwary and the open wind allows waves to build enough to confuse where the next buoy really is.
On the map, and even more so on Google Satellite, Lauwersoog appears to be a last outpost set in a bleak sand strewn wasteland. This is far from the truth. Yes the land has clearly been won from the sea and the North winds can cut across the flat landscape without hindrance but the marina is organised, protected and well appointed and has a wonderful fish restaurant which Jane tells me I am taking her to tonight.
We will probably stay here for another few days waiting for the predicted high pressure to arrive, so will take the last chance to either take the bus to Groningen being one of our favourite towns last visited fourteen years ago or if the sun shines take the ferry with our bikes to Schiermonnikoog the nearest of the Frisian Islands.
A postscript having just returned from the fish restaurant, the one we found was closed and the only alternative on hand was a plain fish and chips cafe which had a few customers when we arrived and none when we had finished, leaving the staff sweeping up and all but putting the chairs on the tables. I promise to make up for it another day.
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Jo O'Reilly I think you are going to need a holiday when you return! Enjoying your blog and the art work, we are missing you on Tuesdays! I went to see Jenny Halsteads exhibition today which was very good, weather here is warm ish and the garden looking at its best! Happy sailing to you both! Jo x