Campsites #9-13: Spirit of Tasmania II, cabin 8076; Preservation Bay, Penguin (bushcamp); Wings Wildlife Park, Gunns Plains; Stanley Tourist Park, Stanley; Waratah Camping Ground, Waratah

A WEEK in North-West Tassie. And what a week! Spectacular coastline, great hikes and more wildlife than even Angelina can remember.

The girls went only slightly stir-crazy stuck in the car for an extra 2 hours as we queued to board the late-arriving Spirit of Tasmania II. Angelina has since had a couple of meltdowns worthy of retelling at her 21st but we've asked a lot of our girls; and overall they've responded exceptionally. Angelina has graduated to a 'big bed' full time and loved having her own bunk on board.

We met a group of Germans who were touring the apple isle on shiny new BMW motorbikes. Apparently a great way to explore the State; and on hearing the bikes upon-up on the highway, I could understand why. The adrenalin was palpable. One male couple was sharing a bike - they will certainly get to know each other very well. 15m2 of space to share is my minimum!

Our first stop in Tassie, was Burnie. A suprisingly charming and welcoming town. Then a hike to the Table Cape lighthouse. We set up our 'beachshack' beside a gorgeous bay near the groovy town of Penguin (yes, really - and a great place to see the little Penguins too). Not too far from our camp was a disused beachside railway line - or so we thought, until a goods train rumbled past at midnight!

We exchanged the seaside air for some wholesome country air and a wildlife experience at Wings Wildlife Park. Angelina enjoyed feeding the animals and both Jonathan and I startled the local cows who were clearly unaccustomed to crazy tourists jogging on their country lanes. Since then we've stumbled upon so much natural wildlife that Angelina is constantly on the lookout for penguins and echidnas and finds it perfectly normal to share her breakfast with the wallabies or ducks that come to visit our campsites.

The next stop was Stanley, possibly Australia's most picturesque (and remote) fishing village. The seafood was lacklustre but the sky, sea and history sparkled. The quaint shops that line the main street, historic Highfield House and convict ruins give a small impression of what life must have been like for the early pioneers. We did our own conquering - of the Nut (or Circular Head). A 450m steep ascent with our little pink 'weights'. It gave us good training for more fabulous hikes in Cradle Mountain. Esther slept through the entire Dove Lake hike there.

Ironically, one of the hardest parts on this trip has been to relax. Naturally, being parents we're on duty 24/7 but we're also used to achieving a lot in a day, whether it's at work or at home. So we've found it hard to succumb Tasmania's beauty and relaxing charms - but I think her persistence has finally won us over!

Next stop: Mt Field, Hobart and Bruny Island