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Vila to Santo
Friday9/7/10We were up at the crack of dawn heading out of Vila to catch up with Angel (Brian and Jan)who had left the day before, we had waited to collect medicine from the hospital.There was only a gentle breeze and the windmills on the hill were still. They tell me the price of electricity in Vila is very expensive because even though they can power up and power down their generators quickly and easily to make the most of the wind, the installation and maintenance costs are extreme.
We rounded devils point in lovely calm conditions (compared to what is usually is) and sailed ten hours to the island Emae.We had to dodge a couple of large bommies (large heads of coral) before we anchored next to Angel.Tony and Sarah went for a snorkel around to check that the boat was far enough away from any hazards. We rested here but did not go ashore.
SaturdayWe were up again at the crack of dawn heading for Port Quime on the island Epi only three hours sail away.Port Quime has a large SDA school which is part supported by the government.We arrived in time for church.The seating was a bit rugged (see photo) and we had Sabbath School then Church so we were glad to stretch when it was all over. As usual when we go to the churches here we had to introduce ourselves and tell all about us and what we are doing here.Even though Pacific Yacht Ministries is a SDA Ministry most of the SDA churches here haven't heard of it.After church we went to visit with one eyed Roy who is a school teacher, now with a govt school after a fall out with the head teacher at the SDA school. We were treated to snacks of roast Epi peanuts (famous over here for quality etc) and lime juice.We gave out some bibles and clothing and they loaded us up with bananas, beans and sweet potatoe.
SundayWe slept in a bit then headed off to the other end of Epi to Lamen Bay.On the way Brian caught two magnificent dolphin fish, he gave us the smaller of the two 1.2m long (see photo Tony wishes he had caught it).There is quite a sizeable village here.There is a very big high school built by Aus Aid, a Yacht club, which for a small amount of Vatu you can join, and a good baker. We arrived just after lunch and Jan wanted to visit Elizabeth who lives in the village a couple of bays back, so we went ½ an hour by dinghy back to Daniel's village (Sorry I don't know the proper name) Jan had some photos of the people from when they visited in 2008.We also took some clothes, glasses and the blood pressure machine.We took the blood pressure of nearly everyone in the village and to show their appreciation they caught a chicken to kill and cook for us but Brian and Jan interceded on its behalf so they didn't kill it, instead they gave it to Brian who surprised everyone by 'hypnotizing' it(see photo of sleeping chicken) .Tony was very impressed with the quality of the building construction and when he talked to Daniel he found that Daniel had had no training in building at all. He had looked closely at the way some of the other buildings were made and copied them.He also built the pews for the SDA church in his village - check the photo - unfortunately we didn't get to test these out!On our way back to the beach we came across a little old lady who couldn't see so well so we gave her a pair of reading glasses (Thanks to Ty and Fi)The look of gratitude on her face when she realised she could see better was worth more than money.We took her picture then showed it to her - the first time she had seen herself in a photo.Back at the beach we met another lady who had just started a Kindergarten, it's only been operating for three weeks.She proudly showed me around and posed for photos with some of the children.
MondayWe went for a walk about in the village and arranged to have lunch at the yacht club and to buy some bread.Both were excellent - lunch cost about $12 for the three of us and bread about $1.20 a loaf still warm from the oven.We found some good examples of the stupidity of the Aid projects that prop up places like Vanuatu.Check out the photos of the wharf - a really good solid concrete wharf, quite long and across the end a steel grate which has rusted out and no one has fixed, now unusable. Also the generator - Where else would you keep it but on the beach.Of course it doesn't work anymore and is gradually filling up with sand.
We visited Lamen island by dinghy in the afternoon (another ½ hour ride)When we arrived, there were Kids all over the beach.They were on a school excursion looking for sea creatures.27 grade ones and twos with just one teacher - imagine getting away with that in Aus.Jan had photos of one of the young men and his sailing canoe from the 2007 trip.He had been away fruit picking in New Zealand when they went back in 2008.But we caught up with him this time - he had spent the morning making concrete blocks for his new house.There are advantages and disadvantages when the young men go away.They see a different life but they bring back some of the junk with them.All the children and old people were gathered around a 7" portable DVD player watching some awful movie that I wouldn't have let Sarah watch.
TuesdayUp early and across to the Maskelyn Islands.Brian caught another small dolphin fish which Jan gave to the locals.There were some interesting things going on here, several people told us about the Palm Project which has a soap factory. I think the feeling of dissatisfaction among some people was due to jealousy.Only some of the community was benefiting.We met the lady behind the project and she kindly showed us around and gave us a sample of the soap.'Chief' Jimmy came out and arranged for us to visit in his village which we did.We took blood pressure readings and compared them to 2008 records which Brian and Jan had.This was quite interesting. There was an overall improvement although we did find one old man who was very sick and suggested to the family that they take him to the hospital ASAP. We spent two days with the people helping where we could.One of the highlights for Tony was the purchase of a local mud crab.It was a whopper and very tasty.
ThursdayUp at dawn again - oh dear I'm not really a dawn person, but it's the best time to sail.We went around the corner to Awai Island to visit Pat and Dave who Tony had talked to on the comedy net several times.Had a great morning with them before heading off to Bannam Bay for the night.We didn't go ashore but one of the locals came out to welcome us and 'trade' - one bullock rope for four rotten eggs.
FridayLeft fairly early headed for Rano Island.As we headed out of Bannam Bay we deliberately crossed over a shallow patch and it paid off - a lovely 77cm Big Eyed Tuna.Then we had perfect conditions for a 30mile spinnaker run.The only time we have even beaten Angel.We arrived mid afternoon and immediately went ashore.Brian and Jan have friends here.James took Tony and I and showed us around some of the Island.They were having a fundraising dinner for the Presbytarian Church so we went along.James wife gave me a lovely 'Mary' dress. I'm not sure whether that is like giving a chicken and becoming a brother or not.Next day I gave her one back so I think we're even.I wore the mary dress to church on Saturday and they loved it - a white women in an island dress.After church we went to check out Regan's lizard which is still alive (Sarah first saw it in 2007) we also checked out his guest house -three years in the making, which when finished will be the nicest one I've seen. We had lunch with them then went back to the boat to collect blood pressure gear and glasses to go back to James village.
SundayWe were going to leave early, but it took us 1 ½ hours to get the anchor up, because both Angel and us had well and truly caught up on the coral. We sailed to Aichen Island where they were expecting us to do blood pressure checks and give out more glasses.One of the interesting things we saw here, was that they buried their close family members just outside their front door not in a 'cemetry'.The graves were very elaborate i.e. Concreted above ground similar to in Aus, some were tiled others, had vases of flowers etc.
MondaySailed to Luganville on Santo. We had just dropped anchor when Tony came down with Hayfever.Nevertheless he went with Brian and Jan and dealt with customs and made arrangements to see all the necessary health officials so that the teams could be organised.
The next couple of days were spent with Tony and Brian making arrangements.
Then Tony came down with the flu and was sick for two days. In the meantime Sarah has been keeping up with School and I've cleaned and sorted heaps of gear.We've taken off all excess gear and put it into storage to get ready for the teams.The weather has been very windy and the anchorage quite lumpy so we decided to go around to the back of Aore for a good nights sleep.
We had a nice time meeting the teachers and staff.We had lunch with the principal and his wife today before coming back to Luganville.
Tonight excitement is running high as tomorrow we are off up into the mountains to meet Sarah's classmate Mathew.He is out here with his family who are translating the bible into the local language of the 'bushmen'.More on our trip next blog.
Love to all til next time
Carol and the crew.
- comments
kiz lol sounds like all those early mornings arent your thing carol Glad you got to give out all those bibles you loaded up to take :)
sandra Carol, looking forward to seeing you model your 'Mary-dress".