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Luang Prabang
Where Chang Mai was relaxed Luang Prabang is positively laid back. The former French colonial capital on the bank of the Mekong is a beautiful, restful city. It's French colonial architecture is quite distinct in this part of the world. The French influence still lingers with many cafes and patisseries to tempt the weary traveler in off the hot street.
However, with so much to see and do here our two days were to be pretty full on. We started off with a visit to Kaung Sii waterfall. Now this has to be the prettiest waterfall we have ever seen. Check out the photos - they don't do it justice. Susan and I took the opportunity for a swim in the incredibly blue water.
At sunset we climbed the 300 steps of Mount Phousi to watch the sun go down over the surrounding mountains before going on to a home meal at a ladies house in town. Three elderly ladies performed a welcome ceremony for us, giving us cotton blessing bracelets. We all sat on the floor and enjoyed a variety of traditional Loas dishes.
After the meal Rita, Susan and I went for another massage while some of the others headed for a famous backpackers bar. Joining them an hour or so later the party was in full flow. After a few drinks it was nearly closing time and big Frank decided that we would all benefit from a demonstration of his professional bowling skills. Well equipped with some road pop we set off into the night to find the bowling alley. Amazingly, there is a bowling alley in LP and we commandeered 2 lanes. Fortified with more beer and whiskey Frank took the lead in showing the locals how the game should be played. He may well be a professional because I've never seen a ball go so high in the air before or heard such a mighty crash as it came to ground half way up a nearby lane. He managed to finish his round with a score in the low forties but the Tuk Tuk driver took a few shots for him. Susan won with a score in the 90s. We made our way home at 2am. For Frank the evening did not end there. He was posted missing in the early hours and was later found fast asleep in the spare bed in Rita's room insisting that he was in his very own bathroom. Rita was unaware of her nocturnal companion.
Astonishingly, everyone appeared for breakfast and our early morning appointment with a herd of elephants. Not only were we to ride on their backs through the jungle we were to sit on their heads when they went down to the river to bath. This was to be the most exiting part. The elephants ducked under the water taking their passengers with them. Surfacing, they then hosed us down with trunkfuls of water - who was supposed to be bathing who. It was a fabulous experience with these magnificent gentle animals.
In the afternoon we took the opportunity to explore the town on our own, ducking into a few cafes for cold refreshment as we went along. In the late afternoon we came to a temple where the monks started to beat an enormous suspended drum and clatter cymbals together in unison. The sound was extraordinary - it went through your bones to your sole.
Before dinner we met up with a few of the group for a steams and massage. This was in a very basic local establishment. We took a look and weren't quite sure but decided to have a go. Men and women steamed separately. You pulled open the door of the shack, pulled aside a curtain and stepped into the heat of hell. Imagine - it is pitch dark, even if there was some light you couldn't see anything through the thick scalding steam. Someone takes your hand and guides you away from the door to a seat. At a lower level the steam is less dense and you can make out your immediate neighbours. Big Frank timed our endurance. None of the boys stayed more than 6 minutes. Susan made 15. Must have been cooler in the ladies. It was so bad we all had to have another go when our brains had cooled a little. The massage that followed was the strongest I've ever had - always on the border of pain. Susan 's legs are covered in bruises.
Dinner that night was pizza and chips -bliss!
Up before dawn to witness the monks alms giving. Every morning at sunrise the locals line the streets to give sticky rice to the monks. The monks emerge from their temples and parade through town collecting the food in their alms bowls. The sight is spectacular with hundreds of monks converging on the biggest temple to take their meal.
Luang Prabang is the sort of town we could live in for a little while to do some English teaching. The living is easy, the climate is cooler and the people are very friendly. Maybe one day.
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