Agra

We were so looking forward to seeing the Taj Mahal again after 3 years. With the beauty of the building and the background story of Mumtaz and Shah Jahan the site provokes a strong emotional response. You see people bursting into tears when they first catch site of those four minarets and the magnificent dome. Set in the gardens it is simply perfect.

We left the hotel at 6am to be first in the queue at the Eastern Gate. At 7.05am the massive gates swung open and the crowd surged forward only to be brought up short by security. Pausing only to chase off a large monkey intent on snatching a bag, security soon cleared us and we were ushered forward through the northern entrance. I won't describe it - I with leave you to look at the pictures which can never come close to doing it justice. I really has to be seen to be appreciated fully. I can't think of a better building in the world.

The Lady Diana bench was doing great business already. Sit down, click, next please. It was the perfect time to see the Taj, the early morning light was quite beautiful and illuminated the building in pink through orange as the sun rose.

Mumtaz died delivering their 14th child and her coffin lies directly under the point of the dome along the line of symmetry of the site. Shah Jahan's coffin, when it was placed next to hers many years later, is the only non-symetrical object. He was laid out, not facing Mecca, but looking directly into his wife's face.

Next stop Agra Fort. This is a huge site with only about 20% open to the public. Shah Jahan spent his later years here under house arrest by his son. He spent his time in the marbled halls directly overlooking his wife's tomb.

After a brief visit to the Babyi Taj which is said to have the most beautifully painted ceiling, it was off to lunch in a South Indian specialist restaurant.

We spent the afternoon with Moragh and Jane in a park directly across the river from the Taj. School kids in posh uniforms were running around and having fun. Jane and Moragh, being teachers, soon attracted a following of kids intent on picking up some English and scamming 10 Rupees.

So, not only did we manage to see the Taj at sunrise, we also watched as the sun set on the dome as well.

Back at the hotel we presented ourselves at the appointed time for dinner only to find that everyone else was worn out and, after a big lunch were never going to eat again. Rather than go out on our own we decided to watch a wedding that was going on just beside the hotel. We had a great view of proceedings from the 3rd floor.

Agra had been cleaned up for Obama coming but he had to go to Saudi instead so we benefited a bit from that.