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So I'm very behind with my blog, partly because I didn't think I had anything more to say about Delhi, but also because the train has practically no internet connection. This may take some time...
= Delhi =
Half way through my time in Delhi I bought a 3-day pass for the Metro, a project that was started to support the Indian Commonwealth Games. At Rs300 (~£4 or $6) for rapid, frequent, clean trains all across the city, this is excellent value. It can also be very popular, and there where times when it was like sardines. On one occasion when the train stopped at a major station, I was swept from the train by the rush of people trying to get off. I'm seriously not sure that my feet touched the ground. I looked at the Indian guy next to me and we both laughed. In any case, with Delhi being so big, the Metro is a great way to get around.
I visited the Qutb Minar Complex which was the first city of Delhi (they are up to seven so far) built around 1200AD. It is now an archaeological site with lots of ruins, but is completely dominated by the sandstone Qutb Minar tower at 72 meters high. The outside is inscribed with versus from the Koran, and is a reminder that much of India's history is Muslim rather than Hindu. The other things I noticed is how the Indian name's sometimes don't appear to have enough vowels.
For most of my time in Delhi I stayed at the Master Guest House run by Avnish and Usi. They love Delhi and are very generous with there time giving background to what you have seen and supplying further suggestions of what you might like to see. I can't say that I love Delhi like they do, but I am very grateful for all the help they provided.
Unfortunately, towards the end of my time in Delhi, I got another galloping tummy; although I can't be sure, I think it was caused by a pizza! Still, Imodium is wonderful stuff, and the holiday must go on.
= Boarding the Train =
On the day I boarded the train, I had been told or read that check-in was 3:30pm, 4pm, 6pm and 7pm. (It could only be India.) I decided to play it safe and turned up for the earliest time. In fact, the confusion was confused by the fact that there are at least two tourist trains leaving from the station; the first was the original Palace on Wheels, and the second was my train The Indian Maharajah Deacon Odyssey. So I got to see the first train come and go before my train arrived, but that's OK. It was great to watch the platform being prepared for the guest, the inevitable confusion as the guest start arriving, the thrill as the train pulled into the platform and the chaos that followed as people and bags had to find their way to the right part of the train. By the time my train arrived I was an old hand.
Both the trains are huge - ~700 yards long. Ours consists of 1 engine and 21 coaches:
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13 sleeping coaches (4 cabins in each)
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2 restaurant coaches
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1 bar coach
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1 spa coach!
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1 meeting area coach
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3 service coaches
Each sleeper has its own "butler" who services the cabins and otherwise looks after your needs while on the train. There is no lack of service; that is for sure. The package is all inclusive, and there is a near constant selection of food available in the restaurants. Finally, for the excursions, the guests are split into groups, each with a dedicated "fixer" and then separate expert guides associated with each excursion. You could pick at a few bits as not being perfect, but it is a remarkable easy way to take in a sweep through India.
I suppose one of the things that you have to get used to is sleeping on a moving train. The movement is a lot more jerky than the roll of a cruise ship and I think many of the guests didn't sleep well for the first few nights. But sheer tiredness and time getting used to the movement has addressed any such issues.
= Day 1: Agra =
The first days excursion was dominated by the Taj Mahal which we saw in the morning; the light was soft from a pale blue sky, and the shadows long because the sun was still low. The place itself is a white marble surround by green gardens and warm red sandstone walls. The vision of these primary colours was quite startlingly beautiful. The first sight comes as you enter the arched gate into the compound and what a reveal. I'm not sure how something that size can creep up on you, but it did it somehow. The other sight I will remember is from the mosque to the left of the mausoleum. Looking back at the Taj through the great arches of the mosque made one feel very small and strangely humble. I won't say any more because I don't really have the words to do it justice, but it is definitely a Wow place - well worth a visit if you get the chance.
After the Taj, we visited a Marble Factory. Here they demonstrated some of the techniques used in decorating the Taj, but in truth it was a thinly disguised shop trying to sell marble products. There have been several of these through the tours for things like carpets and gems. I know there are folk who enjoy being sold at, but I would prefer that if we are going to a shop, that they would call it a shop. There you go - not really my kind of thing.
After lunch we visited Agra Fort and a whole series of palaces. In fact, only about 25% of the fort is open the tourist with the rest being occupied by the army. Nevertheless, the bit we saw seemed to me to be a similar size to Windsor Castle - they do things big around here. In my mind, the term "palace" is usually associated with a building with a series of rooms; bedrooms, dressing rooms, sitting rooms, music rooms, dinning rooms, bathroom etc. Over here, although many of these things probably exist in some form, the focus is very much on the bedroom. These tend to be open to the elements on one side, windows on the other wise and a couple of small chambers of each side. There are often more than one such palace in relatively close proximity; one used for the summer and one for the winter. Also in close proximity are further rooms for the wives and many concubines. We probably saw 3 or 4 palaces at the Agra Fort and a similar number at Fatehpur Sikri later in the afternoon. It has since been a running joke on the train - oh no, not another palace.
We had a taste of real India on the hour long coach trip from Agra Fort to Fatehpur Sikri when we came upon a toll both. Rather than form a queue for each both, it became a free-for-all with cars speeding up the outside and then trying to push in so get through the both. It seemed like we were grid locked for 15 minutes or so with lots of vehicle horns and Indian's offering advice forcefully. Still, as ever, it seemed to come good in the end and we got through and left the rest to it. There may be method in the madness, but I fail to see it.
= Day 2: Jaipur =
Just as day 1 was a full day (leaving the train at 8 am and returning as 6 pm), so the second day was if anything even more busy.
We started at the Amber Fort which we reached (after a coach journey) by elephant ride. Like Thailand, the elephants were mounted and dismounted at high platforms, but unlike Thailand, in India we rode "side saddle". The elephants do at most 6 trips up the hill to the Amber Fort and only work in the cool of the morning. Afterwards, so the guide says, they go to their own village with ponds and lots to eat. I can only hope that what he says is true. Many of the elephants where spectacularly painted and they rumble up the hill and then trot back down to pick up the next load. On the way up you are on the outside with the drop down the hill in front of you as you sway in the seat. I think I had an F1 elephant because we kept overtaking others.
The fort itself contained more palaces, but also a few interesting features. One room was temperature controlled by water flowing through a cavity wall; in summer they used cold water and in winter they used hot water. Also, the compound for the wives was fairly intricate. The Maharajah had separate rooms built for each of his 12 wives (each room with its own secret access path to the Maharajah's own room) and then further dormitories for his 96 concubines. This guy must have had a very busy schedule!
Lunch was at a very nice hotel which was also hosting a large Indian wedding. Apparently, astrologically this was an auspicious time for a wedding and such things are still taken very seriously in India. The garden was richly decorated with bright coloured cloth and flowers and lots of glitter. Very bling but also very beautiful.
The afternoon was spent at the Pink City. More palaces! One highlight for me was a visit to an observatory. This included device to tell both the time of the day and time of the year. One huge sundial projected a shadow onto a circular measure marked to a resolution of 2 seconds! Mixed up with his stuff were other devices related to the signed of the zodiac; part of the astrological heritage. I could have happily spent an hour or so there, but as part of a tour group I had only about ten minutes.
However, the highlight of the day was the Gala Dinner. We were to be guests of the Maharajah at the Pink Palace. We accessed through his private gateway to be met by dancers, coach and horses, camels and elephants all brightly colours in the spotlights. We were then given champaign and presents; the men got turbans and the women got bangles and scarves. After this we were shown to a room where we were entertained with more dancing and acrobatics and a stream of India appetisers. Finally we swooped on the buffet dinner, though by this time we were all a little shell-shocked. I don't think any of us had quite expected such a spectacle. An amazing end to another very long (14 hour) day.
= Day 3: Ranthambhore National Park =
We started the Tiger Safari's in the bitter cold in bumpy, open-topped cantors (minibus cum Jeep) at 7:30 am. Initially, the expert guide would point at a small owlet or a bird and everyone would be "Hoo!" and "Haa!" and out would come the cameras. By the end of the day, anything smaller than a buffalo was shrugged off. During the day we saw marsh crocodile, nilgai (large antelope), chatal (spotted deer), black buck (delicate buck with spiralling horns), wild boar, peacocks, monkeys, a turtle and many many birds. One particular bird is a close relative to the magpie and would take food offered from the guests hands. On another occasion we watched some monkeys raid car for the garland of flowers hung from the reversing mirror. But of course, the real reason for us being here was to see a tiger. We drove around the park in the cantors scanning for signs of the tigers. There are apparently 30 tigers in the park, and I'm sure that several of them would have seen us, but it is a large park and they are very illusive. We saw paw-prints and heard alarm calls from other animals that often indicate the presence of tigers, but failed to find one for a long time. The final give-a-way was the flock of lesser spotted tourists congregated in one area with cameras trained on some bushes!
When both the tiger and you are still, its camouflage is virtually perfect. Some folk were saying "it's there, the white strip to the left of the tree!". I could see lots of tree's and lots of white patches, but found it very difficult to see a tiger. Fortunately, the tiger obliged by having a yawn, a quick wash, moved down to the river for a quick drink before returning to its starting point for its pre-lunch nap. The camera's (sound effect) clicked and whirred in the hope of capturing something. Tiger @ Ranthambhore ✓.
A more unexpected, clearer and perhaps more unusual sighting was at the end of the day on the way out from the park when we saw an albino mongoose. It was still at some distance, but you could clearly see it sat on a rock by the river, tucking into its latest kill.
Although the day was mostly about the wildlife, the backdrop to all this was also very beautiful. It is an area of hills and valleys, and at the centre of the park is Ranthambhore Fort, built on to the very edge and dominating the surrounding countryside. The foliage was very dense with some spectacular many-rooted trees that seemed to be climbing out of the ground like triffids. Also, half hidden in places throughout the park would be apparently forgotten buildings and shrines, now overgrown. It was a magical place and a super days excursion.
Unfortunately, the pace of the journey and the roughness of the ride was beginning to take its toll on the tour group. Some folk skipped the morning session due to weariness from the previous two days, while others skipped the afternoon session with back aches. Other folk had developed tummy troubles though mine had pretty much cleared up. I am so glad that I took the time before this holiday to try and regain some of my fitness.
The end of the day was labelled as High Tea, though it was not quite the scones and cream that many folk were expecting. Instead, it had an Indian twist with vegetable pastries and samosas and cheese sandwiches. Still it was a welcome pause and a chance to use the nice, clean bathroom - always worth the opportunity when it arises.
= Day 4: Udaipur =
The day started with a boat trip around the summer palace in Lake Pichola. We were shown three palaces; the summer palace in the middle of the lake, the winter palace on the banks of the lake, and the monsoon palace on the top of a nearby hill. Then we were shown around the Fateh Prakash Palace and a magnificent crystal display. Much of it was bought by one ruler who died before it arrived, so it was seen as unlucky and put away into storage for many years. Only recently has it been brought back out for display. Then the tour went upstairs for a trip around the museum, but I'm afraid that I'd reached my limit of palaces and pictures and statues and views. Instead I came out and enjoyed a quiet beer sitting in the square watching them take down the wedding festivities.
Fortunately, this was a short day, and the start of a 100Km run on-board the train which took the next 24 hours. But this was a nice opportunity to sit in the moving train and see something of the Indian countryside, and to spend sometime chatting with the other guests.
= Day 5: Ellora Caves =
After 24 hours on the train, we were ready for the next excursion, and left after lunch on our first hot day in India. It was another 1½ hour coach ride, so we didn't arrive at the caves until late afternoon, but it worked well since the low sun was able to shine into the caves. (They've done some planning for this trip.)
The Ellora caves where carved out of the hill from the top down in dates around 500AD. We went inside several of the caves with the guide giving plenty (too much?) information. In the first cave we went in he sang a prayer and it really brought the cave to life with rolling echoes. The last cave we visited was huge and must have demanded an immense amount of effort and planning. Everywhere you looked were beautiful sculptures.
Finally we had another taste of India in a nightmare journey back to the train. The Indians don't like to queue and always assume that they can slip by. On a twisty, hillside road with switchback turns, this just doesn't work and we were soon clogged up. The journey back to the train took 2½ hours!
The train has definitely become "home". When on board, life ticks along smoothly between chatting, reading, sleeping and eating. There is a set menu each day, though they always accept variations from the guest. The set menu includes a choice of either Continental or Indian food, the latter being supplied as a kind of taster selection local to the area we are travelling through. Everything is explained and you can always ask for seconds of anything you particularly like. As you can guess, I've eaten far too much.
= Day 6: Ajanta Caves =
This was another half day excursion, though starting in the morning rather than afternoon. Another long drive to get there was rewarded by a small welcome party including a 10 minute local dance. The caves of Ajanta are distinguished by the copious amount of paintings (instead of carvings). Each painting depicted some storey of Buddha and the guided seemed intent on telling us everyone. Just as I got 'palaced-out' in the first part of the trip, so I was 'caved-out' here. Oh course, it is no ones fault; you can hardly complain that they built all their caves in one area in 300AD, but it does becomes wearisome.
The guide filled in many of the long coach journeys with background details about India. He spent one time talking about the huge improvements made in Indira Gandhi when she took the money that was given by the state to the Maharajahs and redirected it to the poor. He says that conditions now are 100 times better than they were, and that India now grows enough food to feed itself. It is nice to see how proud he is of India, but the guests form a different view when they look out the windows. What we see is great poverty and a diffusion of dirt; plastics and cartons simply pushed away from clean areas (homes, temples) and then allowed to be blown around into bushes and ditches.
But I don't want to leave India on a sour note. It is a great country with areas of stunning beauty, and our train is a remarkably civilized way to get to see a sweep through it. I'd also like to thank Don, Carol, Peter and Yvonne for allowing me to tag along with them when being a solo traveller can be a little awkward.
We will shortly be pulling in to Mumbai where I will transfer directly to the airport for my flight to Dubai. Hopefully I will be able to find some Internet access to post this blog and my photos, and somewhere to get my laundry done. (A week is a long time in one shirt.)
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Nabeel Travel through train is the big source of transportation in India. India is full of tourist places. I want to see them. Florida Vacation Rentals.