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DAY 109. WED. 23/05. Khartoum. 51 kms. Total 23580 kms. National Camping. N15 31.478 E32 34.177
Drove into the city today with the aim of getting all the chores out of the way in one go so we could spend the rest of the time working on Cathey. Rear suspension bushes needed to be replaced as we were getting some bad “rear wheel steering” on the fast tar road sections down from Dongola. On the outside the front rear bushes looked OK but on the inside they had fractured and separated. Luckily we had brought a full set of replacement Polybush with us from the UK in case. 1st stop was the Sudanese French Bank (N15 36.136 E32 31.713) to try and change some traveler’s cheques but they no longer change them so we just changed dollars instead. Then headed to a 2nd hand Land Rover parts garage we had a reference for on the GPS: N15 37.832 E32 32.896. Approaching the point, down a gravel back alley, Rob who was driving, pulled over across to the side of road still slowly inching forward and looking around for anything looking like a Land Rover and not watching the road. Suddenly we tilted over sideways and plunged into a drainage ditch. Quite scary as at one point it felt like we were going to tip over but luckily we came to rest with the front right wheel grounded in the bottom of the ditch on the end of its suspension travel. The chassis was grounded near the middle on the top of the ditch and the rear left wheel was in the air. Luckily there were a large group of strong young men around who picked up the front of the landy while Rob reversed and we were out in a flash – even before the nerves had a chance to set in. They pointed us around the corner where we found what we were looking for – a replacement new’ish 2nd hand hub driving member for the rear wheel that we had swapped over in Libya. Didn’t have one on the “shelf” so just robbed one off one of the Land Rovers in the yard, as usual. Put this new part on the rear left wheel and swapped the one on the rear back to the front. We now have one – although damaged – as a spare. Had some tea with the owner, mechanic and friends and also did a deal to buy some gear oil as the one we had bought in Egypt was not quite the correct grade. Earlier, leaving the campsite, surprisingly, we had driven past a real “Steers” (Real Food Made Real Good). We had both sworn that we would go into the 1st Steers we went past on the trip although we did not think it would be this far north. So our next stop was Steers at N15 34.888 E32 32.962. Worth it just for the air-conditioning but also the great burgers. Around $12-13 so fairly expensive but our treat for Khartoum. We then headed to the Afra Mall at N15 33.579 E32 33.261 to stock up on groceries. Turned out to be a bad mistake. Came to $45 for 2 or 3 bags of food that only lasted a few days. Should have checked the prices more closely while we were shopping and rather shopped at small local markets rather than this western style supermarket mainly aimed at westerners, aid workers and wealthy Sudanese. But did spy out a coffee shop with free WiFi internet that warranted a return visit before we leave Khartoum. Back to camp feeling a little poorer and robbed of our money. During dinner listened to the BBC commentary of the Champions league final until Inga spotted they were showing it on TV in the camp so Rob went to watch the remainder with about 50 Sudanese men. Pretty gutted that Liverpool lost but hey, can’t win ‘em all?
DAY 110 & 111. THURS 24’th & FRI 25/05. Khartoum. 0 kms. Total 23580 kms. National Camping. N15 31.478 E32 34.177
Inga started the day with some washing while Rob lazed around for a while reading and chatting to some local students before getting stuck into replacing the bushes and rotating the tires. Our main decision was whether to replace both front and rear lower link bushes. It was a question of whether only to do what urgently needed to be done i.e. the front bushes only and leaving the rears for later (but this seemed like only doing half the job) or finding a press to remove the rear bushes and doing the whole job now. After much deliberation we decided to replace all 4 rear bushes (front and rear on both sides) thus turning a one day job into a 2 day job. Once we had the one side lower link off, Rob set off with the camp site manager in tow as a guide, to the truck industrial area, not far from the campsite, in search of a press to remove the rear bush. After a few taxis and buses later we arrived at a workshop, however their press wasn’t up to the job and they ended up just doing a typical “African brute force job”. Used a welding rod to burn out the inner metal sleeve and surrounding rubber bush and then a large sledge hammer and bolt as a drift to remove the outer sleeve. However once the sleeve was out the bolt was now fairly well stuck but somehow they managed to remove it. Had to come back with the other one tomorrow but being Friday this workshop was closed (luckily) so had to find a place that would be open. Once we had lined up a place for the next day we headed back to the campsite. Inga had spent some time while Rob was away cleaning Cathey and she now looked somewhat shiny again (unfortunately this was not to last very long.) We both worked through the night to replace the bushes and reassemble the lower link arm. Tough job getting the rear through bolt to line up but with some gentle persuasion with the hammer and by maneuvering the axle up and down with the jack we eventually succeeded. By the time we had packed up and showered, being covered in dirt, dust and sweat, and gotten into bed it was 1am. Next day was a bit more successful. Once we had the second lower link off, Rob headed off again to the workshop, this time on his own. The 1st place we had arranged also couldn’t remove the bush – again press was not up to the job. (literature quoted an example where they needed 15 ton of pressure to remove the bush) But the owner of the workshop took Rob to another place where they had a 100 ton press that managed to remove the bush complete in one go. If only we had found this place yesterday for the 1st one too! Only charged 10 SP too (yesterday’s was a few pounds more) Once back at camp had it all reassembled by late afternoon including swapping one of the rear shocks with one of our old spares as it was not quite 100%, again with perspiration dripping off the nose. So it was a much earlier night for us.
DAY 112. SAT. 26/05. Khartoum. 13 kms. Total 23593 kms. National Camping. N15 31.478 E32 34.177
Decided to spend one more day in Khartoum before heading off to recover from the exertion of washing, cleaning and mechanics. Also wrote some block entries on the laptop. Later in the afternoon we took Cathey out for a test drive to make sure all was OK with the suspension back to mall (N15 33.579 E32 33.261) to use the free WiFi internet connection at the coffee shop. Drinks were expensive of course being a Western style mall but the connection was great – 1st WiFi of the trip and we abused it for a few hours. Also picked up some more mince from the supermarket for spaghetti Bolognese when we got back to camp quite late.
DAY 113. SUN. 27/05. Khartoum to between Wadi Medani and Gedaref. 277 kms. Total 23870 kms. Bushcamp N14 06.919 E34 12.539
Definitely ready to leave Khartoum and start heading towards the cooler weather of Ethiopia. On the way out we stopped to buy some more battery fluid as we had also serviced the auxiliary battery yesterday and didn’t quite have enough to refill it. Leaving Khartoum was another toll booth where this time we finally paid (approx. 7SP) to take us to Gedaref. At our lunch stop, doing a quick check under the landy, Rob noticed we had a repeat of the problem that happened in Mali – this time on the other shock. The bottom retaining nut had again punched through the washer which had fallen off. Quite surprising that it happened now though as we had both shocks off in the last 2 days and put back with everything being fine. So it was just a case of unpacking to get out the spare shock, robbing the washer and again fitting a 2nd thicker washer between the nut and the shock washer to reinforce it. (Something that we had tried to do the 1st time when it happened on the other shock in Mali but gave up as the thread was not quite long enough without jacking up the axle – which we did this time) Other than that no more problems. Shortly before camping in amongst some small mountains alongside the road, we saw our 1st baboons of the trip crossing the road. Not to be our last! For once we found a great bushcamp just at the right time with only a few herders, cattle and goats for company.
DAY 114. MON. 28/05. Between Wadi Medani and Gedaref to Shehedi, Ethiopia. 328 kms. Total 24198. Freecamp: Shehedi Customs Office N12 46.600 E36 24.457.
Approaching Gedaref the countryside was dotted with villages made up of the round grass huts with thatched roofs that are typical of this area. Very rustic but clean and well maintained villages making the area quite scenic. In Gedaref we changed some dollars with the bank manager outside on the street as the bank was officially closed for day. Just needed to put in enough fuel to reach Gonder in Ethiopia, so only changed 40$ which we spent all on rather expensive fuel at N14 00.030 E35 23.423. After this leaving Gedaref was a passport check point at N13 59.825 E35 23.476 before another toll booth where they wanted 4 SP to get to the border town of Gallabat. Again we now had no more Sudanese money so after some more explaining we were again let through – seems to work quite well for us in Sudan although not planned! Arrived in Gallabat and were shown to the passport registration office as you 1st come in on the right to do the necessaries there. Then it was on to the customs office a little further on at N12 57.503 E36 09.021 to stamp out the carnet. Just next door is the immigration office where we were stamped out before moving across the border to Metema in Ethiopia. Seems the weather knows exactly where the border is too as it had become much cooler approaching the border and soon there was thundershowers and lightning. Our 1st rain in a long time. Across the border Rob was lead to the immigration office off to one side behind a corrugated iron fence in a compound surrounded by huts, while Inga stayed in the car as it was raining quite heavily. Took quite a while to process the passports but while waiting Rob was treated to coffee in a traditional Ethiopian coffee making ceremony. They don’t have a proper customs office here but they do check some documents and search the car – done at the building across the road. Once we had done that and shaken off the money changers we were free to move on. The difference in crossing the border was immediate – so many more people walking in the road. (In fact all roads in Ethiopia are largely used as pavements for people and livestock) And village after village – very little uninhabited country. Ethiopia is much smaller than Sudan but has a much, much larger population. And all of them – especially the kids screaming “You, You…” at you. Bit of a culture shock and takes some getting used to. At about 6pm we arrived at Shehedi where the customs office is to do the carnet paperwork after negotiating the wet gravel road. Unfortunately they were closed for the day but turned out to be a bit of a blessing for us as we got to camp for free in the office grounds and were left alone for a nice quite camp. Even had basic toilets – tiny hole in the concrete floor. Had the duvet out again and the tent quite closed up compared to Sudan as it was much cooler - so better sleep all round.
SUDAN COST SUMMARY:
· CHEAP HOTEL: 7SP (3.5$) per person (Wadi Halfa)
· CAMPING: 10SP per night – Khartoum National Camping.
· DIESEL: 100 – 115.6 SD/l (50 to 57.8 US cents/l)
· FOOD: Khatoum’s large Western style shopping centres/supermarkets very expensive (45$ = 3 packets of “essentials” only) Rather shop at smaller local shops/markets
· MONEY: No ATMS. Travelers cheques not widely accepted and if they are then very expensive to change (20-25% commission) Cash – US Dollars best.
OVERALL:
Despite the heat we loved Sudan. One of our favourite countries so far. Undoubtedly though, we would have enjoyed it even more if it were slightly cooler or we had visited at a cooler time of year. Hospitality and friendliness of the people (especially in the north) is amazing as they have so little themselves but often offer you food and drinks.
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