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1 July, More Memphis
The Elvis museum was ruled out due to being expensive, for something I didn't especially want to see (the basic tour, and it's very basic, is $28, and the worthwhile one, which I'd do if I wasn't so tight, is $69). I did go to the W C Handy house and museum, during opening hours, but it was closed… I took a late lunch in the Kooky Canuck diner, where for $21.99 you can get 4 pounds of pure beef on a bun with lettuce, tomato, onions, pickles and cheese - and if you eat the lot in under an hour you get it for free. You could also wash it down with the Avalanche dessert - "a massive 18 scoops of ice cream decorated with tons of toppings" for $17.99. Which reminds me, I still can't get used to the prices usually being quoted ex-tax, which is about 9.5% here, depending on what you buy.
I have one more night here before moving north. I have mixed feelings about Memphis. This trip has, by design, been largely off the beaten track. OK, there have been tourists, but they've tended to be from fairly local locations. In Memphis I have come across the second set of objectionable "Brits Abroad", (the first being a Scots father and son in Nashville). Although very much a working city, Memphis is much more touristy than I'm used to - maybe not quite Orlando or New York, but certainly tourism is fairly high in their agenda. In itself, Memphis is fine, and has all that it says it has. But for me, on this trip, it was where I suddenly realized that I was well round the corner and heading home. (Not least because I followed up a mail from home which could have given me some work, but was a false alarm!)
Beale Street is The Place To Be for evening entertainment. Prices are OK, and most bars have OK to good live music, but they really could do with cleaning up the panhandling (street begging) that goes on in the general area. The guys don't get aggressive, but as soon as one leaves you another is onto you - "I'm only 50 cents short of a cold beer…" I just spoke with an older guy from Atlanta who was mugged last night for his shoes and cash, just off Beale. Glad to report that I'm safe…
Wednesday night on Beale is Bike Night, with the street being filled with Harleys, and just a sprinkle of sports bikes, and the guys and gals roaring up and down the surrounding streets making lots of noise. I'm told that Thursday is country night, which would have been good, but with 0 miles under my belt today I need to be back on the road…
The Dempseys were an awesome rockabilly band in the Blues Hall Juke Joint. A three piece, they were each able to competently play all instruments. The upright bass man was the joker in the pack, playing the double bass like a guitar, and behind his head. They are a real treat to watch, I'd love to see them again.
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