After two days at sea crossing the Mediterranean our next port of call was Port Said. The ship docked early to enable tours to go to Cairo and the Pyramids. Not wanting to spend several hours on a coach, and having visited the Pyramids before, we explored Port Said. It's not a terribly attractive place although it is a popular beach resort for the Egyptians.
With a population of roughly half a million traffic soon builds up to the typical frenzy of vehicles all over the roads, which have no markings, weaving in and out of the narrowest spaces and constantly sounding their horns. Crossing the road takes some planning and courage because even where there are pedestrian lights they are totally ignored by all drivers. The only way to get across a road is to either run for it or step out far enough away from the vehicles so that they have time to stop rather than mow you down.
Port Said lies at the entrance to the Suez Canal so much of its industry and commerce is associated with shipping. Shipping offices line the canal front along Palestine Street. The waterfront heaves with ships and boats of all shapes and sizes. The larger vessels drop anchor in the middle of the channel waiting for their turn to begin the transit of the canal; smaller vessels weave in and out mostly carrying people to the eastern side of the canal. A ferry service operates about 8 flat bottomed boats which ply back and forth across the canal to Port Fouad. These vessels accommodate vehicles and foot passengers and it is a sight to behold as the cars jostle for position on the narrow deck - it is merely an extension of the road and they treat it as such. The same procedure applies when disembarking - something akin to the starting grid of an F1 race but with clapped out old bangers wanting to be the first off, hooting constantly! There are not many newer cars in the town - in fact the only ones we saw were in a Kia showroom down the same street as the police station. We only realised it was the police station when we clocked the barriers and barbed wire across the road and a wagon load of police guarding it.
Along Palestine Street and El Gomhuriyya Street (the main shopping street), the locals hurried about their business - the men having coffee and smoking hookah pipes, the women buying local provisions. Noticeable was the separation of shops by gender - separate shops for men's, women's and children's shoes and clothing. Armed guards were apparent at all ATMs.
Yet the Egyptians are a friendly people and unfailingly polite - passers by greeted us with "Welcome to Egypt" on several occasions - this was not unique to our first visit to Egypt in 2007.
A modern elevated promenade stretches along the waterfront form the ferries to the cruise terminal - good views of some of the more interesting architecture of the town. Of note are the 4 storey buildings with metal or wooden balustrades along the front which gave the area a feel of New Orleans.
Port Said, as Cairo, is a town of contrasts - well maintained mosques and dilapidated apartment blocks side by side, roads and services desperately in need of improvement.
As usual the street vendors were on the quay along side the ship. Not only prepared to sell a variety of items of dubious quality, (as always at variable prices, following intense negotiation involving much discussion as to how many children they had to support and how you would drive them to complete poverty if you didn't t meet their asking), they also had a number of new techniques. Not least of these was one gentleman's flattering assertion as to Jane's age capped by the offer to make her his second wife in recognition of her undeniable beauty. Regrettably for all concerned no such offer was forthcoming for her first husband, who remains convinced he did make a lasting impression on a passing camel of dubious morals!
We continue, on board, to be much occupied with security issues as the vessel sails towards the Gulf of Aden and beyond. Prior to our arrival in Port Said a full security drill was held with crew in full emergency gear. I did offer to audition for the role of "first pirate". Some of the thespians amongst you may recall my earlier (and I regret, only) appearance as third hairy ishmaelite in an epic production of Joseph, I felt this established my credentials. The large number of sticks, walking aids and Zimmer frames amongst the passengers would enable me to cobble together a crutch, the well documented deficiencies in my eyesight obviates the need for an eyepatch and I know where I can lay hands on a dead parrot. Allied to my Ishmaelite background and capacity to deliver a basso profondo "ahoy Jim lad, avast there and belay that", I felt I was a shoo-in. The big muscular gentleman who appeared to be in charge sadly failed to recognise my potential and, harshly I felt, suggested the nearest I was going to get to being a pirate would be when he lobbed me over the side!!! Now I know I'm a pretty good swimmer these days, but that's another story maybe. You never know, Bondi Beach, surf dude, I feel a story coming on.
We were able to avail ourselves of very cheap wifi to catch up on emails at a very helpful travel agent on the quayside. $1 bought 30 minutes of Internet time to send our emails, considerably cheaper and much more reliable than "pax oriana" at £35 for 100 minutes!