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Jimmy, my knee feels funny.
I am delighted to say that after the run in Valencia my legs were noticeably sore, which confirmed that my less than planned distance wasn’t down to lack of trying. Lack of ability I can live with.
My last day in Valencia comprised of a sauna and swim in the morning (whenever I say swim by the way you should think “floating with style” in a Buzz Lightyear kind of way) and a lot of walking. I stumbled across a great little museum holding the winners, dating back to the 1920s, of the annual festival where they build huge caricatures and set fire to all bar one on a night of general celebration and burning stuff. Sounds like a plan to me. I thought of Neville (Sly) when I saw the blacksmith and John Sheridan when Yoda popped his head up. A huge amount of effort must go into these – it is a profession to make them – and only one survives.
The ferry trip from Valencia to Mallorca was like riding in the tardis. We boarded late Monday night, I went to sleep in my cabin (Arrrgh Wendy and Kellie, oi thart of u when oi sore me boonk me hardies) without even feeling us leave the wharf and when I woke up we were off the coast of Mallorca. It was a great way to get here and it meant that I didn’t lose exciting holiday time for the journey. Boat trip, tick.
What a wonderful few days I had in Mallorca. Australians don’t generally come here, the vast majority of tourists are German (it’s their Bali) and early May is by all reports the best time of year to visit – good weather without the stifling crowds of summer. In peak season this year they expect to have 90,000 hire cars in use – their total population is just over 700,000. A good ad for public transport and for checking European holiday habits before you book .
I arrived in Palma straight off the boat and inordinately early for a tourist and yet the hotel made no attempt to turn me back or lock me up while my check-in was processed. Instead they settled me in for a long breakfast, clearly not realising how much, or for how long, I can eat. Scott Morrison, there’s a thought – try showing some hospitality. One of the lovely restaurant team, Rosa, quickly sensed that I needed stronger coffee so for the duration of my stay she would bypass the usual pot of coffee and arrive instead with an espresso that she’d made for me. She also gave me advice on places to go around the island which was invaluable given my short stay and lack of research. Rosa, you’re a gem.
As my legs weren’t really tired enough I decided to walk up to Castell de Bellver which took about half an hour, all of it uphill. Fortunately it only really hurt when going down stairs...... Damn...... Anyway, the castle had a great section covering the incarceration of a Spanish lawyer who fought for social reform in the time of the Spanish Inquisition. He was highly respected and popular so was made a senior judge and Minister, then promptly locked up for years.
In the evening I explored the hotel pools by adopting an approach pioneered by Goldilocks. First I tried the two outdoor pools, but they were a tad breezy and less than bath temperature. Next I stepped into the jacuzzi, but it was too warm and the salt spray tickled my nose. Last of all I waded into the heated indoor/outdoor pool and it was just the right temperature and allowed me to paddle about to my heart’s content. Thank you again Marie for a great hotel.
Dinner was a lovely experience on its own. As a woman travelling alone I am sensitive to surroundings and service and the team here tailored both for me. Instead of sitting in the restaurant they set up a table for me by the bar overlooking the pool and harbour. Their wonderful chef, Carlos, happened to wander past and after a brief chat he chose my meal and a matched wine for me, followed up with a great dessert. It was like eating a friend’s house where you don’t pick the menu, but they can cook really, really well. And just when I thought it couldn’t get better, the full moon appeared over the harbour. And then the live singers opened with a great version of a Norah Jones classic followed up with “It’s a wonderful world”. I was looking for the director and film crew.
The next day I did the classic tourist thing and took a bus tour to the other side of the island. As sad as this will sound, the stand out for me was the drive in the bus. The roads were a-m-a-z-i-n-g and nothing I would be brave enough to drive given that they involved cliffs, tight winding roads, cyclists doing their versions of the Tour de Mallorca and tourists attempting to drive beyond their capabilities. And this isn’t high season. We tripped through villages - Lluc, Calobra and Soller travelling in turn by boat, tram and train, but nothing could come close to the experience of the road trip.
After paddling around in the pool again, another wonderful dinner cooked by Carlos and more coffee and travel advice from Rosa, I set off by bus the next day to meander through central Palma. I wanted to tick off a couple of the usual tourist destinations like the main cathedral, but the most satisfying things were those that I stumbled across. The Palau de l’Almudaina was uncrowded and felt uniquely Mallorcan. There were huge 13th century tapestries hanging on the walls of the main hall – no barriers or fuss, just very accessible and equally impressive. In the stone chapel were the bones (ok, relics for the Catholics – they are in the glass case on the left in the photo) from the Saint the chapel was consecrated in honour of. Slightly creepy, but again impressive for age and accessibility.
I also saw some great street art, visited a Turkish bath-house from the 10th century, ate a wonderful tuna tart from a small produce store and, in a little alcove entry to a yachting association, I touched a 300AD Roman anchor. The things that they just have hanging around in the foyers.
On the last evening I had dinner with a young German woman staying at the hotel and also travelling alone. She was really interesting and has just been tasked by her company to help them discover and incubate entrepreneurs and disruptive ideas. They are a large global brand and she has a really strong focus on balancing innovation and sustainability so I expect that she will do exceptionally well. We are in London at the same time so we plan to catch up for Indian, a bit of work chat and more holiday stories.
Time to leave Mallorca for Barcelona and an indisputable highlight of the trip – the Spanish Grand Prix. My next update will comprise entirely of Daniel Ricciardo fan updates and food stories. What else is one going to do in Barcelona?
- comments
Chris Gillies Just wanted know you were alive and kicking!! Delighted you have pulled up well after the run and are well and having a great time. Enjoy the Grand PrixLove the blog!!
Peter Mitchem Sigh, sounds like the perfect holiday! Keep enjoying! Peter
Wayne Shaw It sounds like you are having an absolutely great time. Barcelona is a great city. I am jealous. Enjoy your time there
Celia Cannavan I am currently living vicariously through your blog and having the most wonderful time holidaying with you :) Keep having fun (for both of us :)
victoria dartnell Great Blog Sue! Take care and safe travels x
Lynda, Laurence, Jas and Ami Sounds wonderful, we are really enjoying the updates of your travels and the photos. Dinner overlooking the pool looked amazing!
Helen Bekiaris What an amazing time you're having Susan...love the blogs xx