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(Note: Entry for Chitwan National Park has also been added)
Back in Pokhara, after meeting back up with Chris and Anna who we had met in India and another British couple - Michael and Lauren, we decided to team up to do a 10 day trek to Muktinath via Jomsom (known as the Jomsom Trek) which follows the last half of the Annapurna Circuit. We decided to do this without a guide or porter and therefore carried all our own kit. It was a challenging and absolutely brilliant experience with diverse and awesome scenerey and alot of laughs along the way.
Day 1
Route: Nayapul (1070m) (We began here at 9am after a taxi ride from Pokhara.) to Tikhedunga (1540m).
Ascent: 470m
Scenery: A collection of pretty little villages and a well walked path.
Memorable monent: Meeting a very odd Canadian trekker whose motto was "To earn respect, you've got to show disrespect."
Notable food/drink: Dal Bhat (Rice, veg curry, dal and poppadums)
Day 2
Route: Tikhedunga (1540m) to Ghorepani (2860m)
Ascent: 1320m
Scenery: Steps, steps and more steps through rhododendron forests and past numerous donkeys carrying rocks, food and other products.
Memorable moments: The stone staircase of 3421 stone steps. Dancing at a village wedding party on a hillside.
Notable food/drink: Warming mugs of delicious hot chocolate when we finally arrived at our destination.
Day 3
Route: Ghorepani (2860m) to Sikha (1935m)
Descent: 925m
Scenery: Stunning mountain views, rolling hills and lush green terraced hillsides.
Memorable moments: Very early (4.30am) start for the 'near religious experience' of watching sunrise over panoramic views of the Annapurna Himal from Poon Hill. The idyllic setting of lunch at 'Mike's restaurant'. Free accommodation at 'See you Lodge'!
Notable food/drink: Apple pie baked with custard inside. Simon and Chris ate in silence and only thought to mention how delicious this was the next day when there was no possibility of anyone else tasting a morsel.
Day 4
Route: Sikha (1935m) to Tatopani (1190m)
Descent: 745m
Scenery: Picturesque villages decorated with orange trees, banana and bamboo plants and a variety of colourful flowers.
Memorable moments: Bathing in the hot springs at Tatopani. Drinking the local brew - Chyang at Bob Marley's restaurant - Michael and Lauren's last night.
Notable food/drink: Chyang (Rice wine vinegar flavoured alcohol) - Mental note: don't drink this ever again.
Day 5
Route: Tatopani (1190m) to Ghasa (2010m)
Ascent: 820m
Scenery: Much drier landscape. Paths cutting through rocky hills, often blocked by boulders from recent landslides.
Memorable moments: Running for fear of our lives when we thought a landslide was about to occurr - luckily just wind and a few falling stones. Arriving at the lovely 'Eagles Nest Lodge', trying to spot wild sheep on the hillside with the owner, having an actual hot shower (rather than hot water in a bucket).
Notable food/drink: Deep fried cheese and egg toasties.
Day 6
Route: Ghasa (2010m) to Larjung (2550m)
Ascent: 540m
Scenery: Pine forests, glacier views, snaking hillside paths.
Memorable moments: Watching vultures soaring and resting in nearby trees. Panoramic views from the world's deepest valley.
Notable food/drink: Local apple cider - sweet and delicous.
Day 7
Route: Larjung (2550m) to Marpha (2670m)
Ascent: 120m
Scenery: Apple trees and the wide, flat, dried up riverbed.
Memorable moment: Enjoying an afternoon off in Marpha and warming our legs with an under-the-table bucket of hot coals.
Notable food/drink: Local apple brandy
Day 8
Route: Marpha (2670m) to Kagbeni (2800m)
Ascent: 130m
Scenery: Dusty and almost desert-like - looking up from the dry riverbed at strange, almost prehistoric rock formations was an other-worldy experience.
Memorable moments: Spending three hours playing the name game. Wandering round the village that time forgot (Kagbeni) through narrow alleyways and mediaeval streets.
Notable food/drink: Dried apple bites in a bag.
Day 9
Route: Kagbeni (2800m) to Jarkhot (3550m) via Muktinath (3760m)
Ascent: 940m
Scenery: Steep, narrow and slippery hilly paths and frozen streams.
Memorable moments: Arriving at Muktinath - the highest point of the trek. Visiting the temple complex - important for Hindus and Buddhists because of a natural gas flame which appears to burn on water. Beer, lunch and pool at Bob Marley's restaurant in Muktinath.
Notable food/drink: Yak steak and chips.
Day 10
Route: Jarkhot (3550m) to Jomsom (2720m)
Descent: 730m
Scenery: Back along the dusty, stony and windy riverbed.
Memorable moments: Seeing each other dissappearing behind dust storms. Finding ammonite fossils on the riverbed trail.
Notable food/drink: Thakali (Tibetan caste famous for hospitality) cooking at our lodge.
Day 11
Route (by plane): Jomsom (2720m) to Pokhara (1770m)
Descent: 950m
Scenery: Flying in a 16 seater plane through valleys, mountains and tiny settlements retracing the route we'd walked.
Memorable moment: Enjoying the flight and taking the weight off our feet.
Notable food/drink: Fry ups and croissants for breakfast back in Pokhara.
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