Following hot on the heels of the herd we stopped at Karaoba.

Reports were that 300 of our fellow saiga had passed through days earlier, so we were on track.

They don't come so close to the villages as they once did - fearing the humans that live there, so the best people to speak to about the whereabouts of the saiga are the farmers. Hen has spoken to several so far who have been really helpful and wiling to share their knowledge with her.

Sightings suggested that we were on the right track but the interviews highlighted the difficulties in tracking and monitoring such a mobile species. I went along one day having heard of the warm hospitality provided by the farmers and their families, and was not disappointed. Delicious food and tea ('Chai') ensued as we learnt about the changes seen by the farmers in saiga behaviour and distribution.

The word got around that foreigners were in town and we became quite the tourist attraction, Hen and Carlyn are great for attracting publicity. After playing a great game of football with about 30 children we sat down for a traditional dinner of beshparmak, the national dish! All of a sudden a man we'd bumped into earlier appeared, having tracked us down and although a little inebriated managed to convey his plan to save my species..... apparently all we would need is a helicopter which he had kindly taken the time to draw and colour in for us! Pleased with his enthusiasm we thanked him and asked if he was a pilot.

Niet!