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The last part of my Indian adventure took place in the cooler climate of the Himalayas. After a brief stop in Delhi, an overnight train and a long bus ride up winding roads I found myself in a place called Mcleod Ganj, slightly higher than Dharamsala. McLeod Ganj is the headquarters of the Tibetan government in exile and the residence of His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama.
Not only does wandering around here require jumpers and waterproofs, it also has a very Tibetan feel- very different to what I have experienced already. I had left Goa in the top 30s and very humid and it was now freezing cold at near zero temperatures. There was also a mighty storm raging and for the first time in about seven weeks I saw rain!
Mcleod Ganj is also based on a mountain so you either go up or you go down. Luckily for us our hotel that we had been recommended was downhill. Unluckily for us, we missed the path and ended up scrambling down a cliff in the mud and with backpacks.
My travelling companion, Mayank, had a problem with his knee due to a painful ingrowing hair, and so had to spend several days in bed. This meant I could wander this place at will.
The main attraction is the Tsuglagkhang Complex, comprising of the photang (official residence) of the Dalai Lama, as well as the Namgyal Gompa, Tibet Museum and the Tsuglagkhang itself.
The revered Tsuglagkhang is the exiles' equivalent of the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa. Sacred to Avalokitesvara (Chenrezi in Tibet), the Tibetan deity of compassion, it enshrines a 3m-high gilded statue of the Sakyamuni Buddha. This was amazing to look at and very peaceful. The first time I visited it the monks were chanting and drumming giving it a very mystical feel. I also saw a parade around the town with everyone walking with candles in procession, totally oblivious to everyday life.
My first full day there was gorgeous and sunny but, as I soon learnt, the weather changes quickly and the next day a massive storm raged making me hotel bound. You quickly realised that one minute you could be enjoying the view of a sun drenched valley without a cloud in the sky, then a little cloud would appear which turned into a bit of fog, which then swamped the entire valley blocking the view entirely. Then the sun would appear again. The view though was amazing. Stunning mountain ranges, some with snow capped peaks. Bliss.
With the Dalai Lama in hiding and with Mayank's leg slightly better we moved higher into the mountains.
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