Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
Another activity that ranked highly on my list of things to do in South America was to make it to a top level futbol game. Like most people at home, I had heard all sorts of stories about how crazy the games could be.
So far, the Argentines had lived up to my preconceived notion of them - fiery, passionate, dramatic, loud, highly opinionated and expressive. I was also in no doubt of their love for futbol, it was everywhere; the local teams' jerseys were always on display, football was constantly on the front pages of the papers and on one occasion a massive crowd standing shouting and cheering outside a TV shop showing the big local derby game made for a good photo op.
With all this in mind, I jumped at the opportunity to go to see Boca Juniors play at home one Thursday night in September.
I'd heard tales of tourists getting hassled and even robbed at these games, I was told to wrap up well and not bring any values - both pieces of advice which I ignored! I was there to support the local team and planned to get involved and make as much noise as any of them in doing that - if they didn't like that so be it, but I was pretty sure they'd be as welcoming as ever.
I knew Boca were in good form, historically the most successful team in the country, reigning league champions and currently well placed in the top half of the table. A quick glance at the league table told me that the opposition, Estudiantes, were sitting near the bottom of the table and so weren't exactly setting the world alight. Although they had enjoyed a good victory in their last game, I was still hopeful of a solid home win.
Boca's home ground is in the centre of Buenos Aires in La Boca (the mouth - next to the old port) area. I relished the opportunity to visit this reportedly 'sketchy' neighbourhood at night within the security of decent sized tour group. As we made our way towards 'La Bombonera' in our little bus our guide told us how the Boca fans were proud of their nickname "La 12" i.e. player number 12 - such was their ability to influence the outcome of a game with their strong support. I hoped they would live up to their nickname tonight.
But before we got down to business the tour treated us to burgers and beer (in no particular order) in what looked like a disused car garage a few minutes from La Bombonera. The place was a little basic and rough around the edges but I liked it a lot - the beer was cold, the burgers were hot(ish) and the company was the very best.
Before long, it was time to hit the ground. We arrived well in advance of the first team's game and this gave us the opportunity to secure good seats, get settled in and catch some of the underage warm up game.
We also got to have a good look around. I'm pretty sure it's the only place in the world you'll find Coca Cola branding in black and white as opposed to its traditional red and white. Reason being, red is the primary colour of Boca's one time arch enemy and local rival, River Plate. I say 'one time' because River Plate have since suffered relegation into the lower league so it is very rare that the 2 teams be in direct competition these days. Indeed, this is the source of some ridicule as the Boca fans fly black flags mocking their fallen rival. On the basis of this knowledge and the fact that no one else in the crowd seemed to be wearing even a hint of red, I thought it best not to put on my bright red favourite hat despite the cold - moma didn't raise no fool!
The excitement was palpable in advance of the main event kicking off. The stadium quickly filled up as the hardcore fans rolled in about 10 minutes before the 1st team game was due to start. Everyone stood up, the crowd bunched together and we jostled for the best viewpoints.
As the home team took to the field and the game kicked off shorty thereafter, the home fans got the whole place jumping (literally!) - there were massive flags, drums, everyone was singing (properly singing, not just chanting like their English counterparts), there were accompanying hand movements, free inflatable tubes in the Boca yellow and blue to wave...the atmosphere was electric start to finish.
The match itself wasn't that much of a spectacle but that didn't matter to the home fans. The quieter the game was, the louder they were. A former River Plate player came on for Estudiantes and they went nuts booing and whistling at him.
Despite ongoing injury problems, Boca's star player, captain and for all intensive purposes 'Roy of the Rovers', Juan Roman Riquelme, played the whole game. The crowd started chanting his name as soon as he took to the pitch - and this was repeated sporadically throughout the game. Riquelme is a legend in this part of town - best player on the pitch by a mile, nothing started until he got the ball, he seemed to have endless time when he was on the ball, never lost it and always picked the right option - worth the admission fee on his own. He was the last player to leave the pitch at the end of the game and threw his shirt to the fans - Boca had won 2-1, thanks in no small part to him and the crowd loved it!
As if to add the the stories I'd heard of how crazy the rivalry between the opposition fans was, the home fans were held in the ground some 45minutes after the final whistle in order to allow the the opposition support 'escape' to a safe distance.
In summary, South American futbol is loco and I think I like it!!
- comments