Leipzig! Hometown of Goethe, Wagner and the incomparable JS Bach (there must be something in the water). I wanted to come here mostly so we could see more of Germany than just the capital, and it was a fun place to spend a few days. Although half of the suburbs are colorless blocks crumbling from communist neglect, the old town has magnificent cathedrals, cobbled streets, lots of places to sip a beer on a patio, and the best (only?) potato house I've ever been to (imaginatively titled the Kartoffelhaus), where even vegetarians like us can dine like kings on baked potatos overflowing with cheese and veggies (accompanied, naturally, by more beer). As for digs... East Germany is the first place since Morocco where Rebecca and I could actually afford a double room. It was downright luxurious. On the whole, I recommend the place.