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Day 3 in Pune and it was time to head a little further afield, we hired a driver (Shafiq) and a car (with seatbelts) to take us round the historical sights of Pune. We were very fortunate to have amazing staff at the hotel and Neha helped us put together an itinerary of the main points of interest. In the north of the city there are three points of 'interest', two prisons and a mental asylum. And so our tour of south Pune began.
Driving around, we started to see things in Pune from a different perspective. In the traffic it is claustrophobic, you are constantly surrounded by other vehicles and it also seems that every space no matter how small, can fit in one more auto rickshaw. The pollution in the air is thick everywhere, but in the traffic it feels like it has weight to it. A key indicator of this is the public bus windows, which are so clogged with grime they are impossible to see through. We also established that it was a full public holiday and so the streets were busy and the traffic gridlocked.
Pune has a population of 31 million people, which is two and a half times that of London, in an area around a third of London's size.
Our first stop was Shaniwar Wada, which is a Palace/Fort in the centre of town, it was inhabited by the Peshwa rulers before it all but burnt down. The remains consisted of the imposing, spiked doors and ramparts which we had a quick walk around and not a lot else. From the upper ramparts there are some impressive views of the former gardens, but they are just that, the beauty of another era is long gone and just the grass remains. The site was busy and seemed to largely to be used by local couples seeking a bit of solitude.
Back in the car and on to Dagadushet Temple (dedicated to Ganesh) which is 3 minutes walk or a 15 minute drive down the road. This part of town is a furious mix of vehicles, 5 or 6 lanes across trying to get down a road that is 2 lanes wide. Parking was out of the question so we did a drive-by and got a couple of snaps of what was the most aesthetically impressive landmark we saw all day. The ornate gold and white tower (although under construction) is simply exquisite and we truly wish we had more we could say about it.
Onward! We headed on through the choking traffic, it seemed that either one of us could have found our way through the city quicker than our driver, although to be fair it does seem that Indian men do not have a problem with asking for directions. 20 minutes later and having had 5 or 6 views of the same memorial (albeit from different angles), we arrive at the Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum, this museum was started by Dr Dinkar in memory of his son who had died unexpectedly. Could you google the museum and let us know what was in there as when we turned up the museum was without power "because it was Thursday" and we weren't allowed in.
On our way to the Chaturshringi Temple, Shafiq stopped at Saras Baug and beckoned us to get out of the car and go and have fun. Saras Baug is an amusement park. If you can imagine the tattiest, most run down travelling funfair you've ever seen and then take out two handfuls of nuts and bolts, you may get close to how it looked. We declined and a slightly dejected Shafiq drove on.
The Chaturshringi Temple (Chatur = 4) is set on a mountain with 4 peaks, it's over 100 steps to reach the temple. It's surrounded by grazing pastures and trees and is a tranquil spot in the city. The walk up wasn't too bad but unfortunately the trees were overgrown and the buildings in front of the temple too high and so the views were not spectacular. The temple itself was also obscured by trees and so the full impact of the amazing building was muted.
This was the first temple we had visited and there were a number of people visiting for prayers. We both felt that going in was an intrusion on their faith. We sat for a while and waited for it to quieten down. I then drew the short straw to go in first. Off came the boots and socks and in I went. Anyone who knows me will probably also know that I have issues with walking around in bare feet. I don't know why but I've always had this phobia. But this is what our trip is about, challenging ourselves and the way we think. Small steps.
The air in the temple was thick with incense, the walls were adorned with bright coloured pictures of all sorts of animals and people. People were praying at the shrines along the walls and it did feel like an intrusion. I stood there long enough to be able to say "I did it" but not a moment longer. I told Janet it was amazing.
Our last stop of the day was at the Parvati Hill temples, these are 5 temples located atop a hillock (2100ft above sea level). Fortunately for us the way up is paved and has long steps. We ambled up at a slow pace (both of us making excuses for stop and catch our breath "ooh, look at the view"). On the way up we saw cows and goats along with the content looking people making their way back down from making their short pilgrimage.
At the top there is a temple dedicated to Shiva. The facade had two depictions of the God on the outside. It was J's turn to go in. She kept her socks on. On the inside the walls were painted rust red, ochre and cornflower blue. There were archways of different shapes, some looked like they had been pinched to a point on top and others scalloped. A gold cage housed the deity of a sacred cow.
On the outside of the temple, the city of Pune reveals itself. Where two trees parted, a view of farmers with their animals, cows, goats and sheep, people washing in the makeshift shower and buildings of every shape and size, temporary and permanent, made out of everything from steel, brick and carbon fibre to tattered cloth, sticks and the blue tarpaulin.
If you concentrate you can find the tranquility of the hills and the fresh air and we did, but through the chirruping birds you can still hear the car horns that honk and the constant traffic that blends into one prolonged hum.
We had our day trying to find historical Pune with mixed results. On the up side Stace has finally agreed that in some cases south of the river is better.
This is a holiday with a difference, it has begun in a city that is not pleasing to the eye, neither is it easy on the emotions, but we have found the people we have interacted with warm and helpful and we have greatly enjoyed being in the place they call home.
Goa here we come...
- comments
Mum We are just so proud of you both. Blogs fantastic. And talking to you today just great. Sorry we didn't get to finish the conversation. Have a great time in goa and all our love mumsie, kaz and helks x x x
maureen hinds another loverly blog you do the walking and climbing and I will enjoy the scenery glad you are enjoying the food get a mask if the car fumes get too strong you dont want bad chests.lots of love mumxx
Pat, Jane, Abi & Ben Sounds like the weekend we've just had- stuck in traffic on the M25 and A3 for 4 hours trying to get down to the south coast! Loving the blogs guys and looking forward to the next instalment.
Dennis Gordon This is a rather adventurous trip.You both are very brave. Continue to enjoy your trip and please keep me informed. Love Uncle Dennis
Paula Janet you left your socks on!!