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The craziness of Carnaval
7th -13th Feb
We arrived at our hostel in a taxi from the bus station. We had booked a hotel in Bahia, the beach area where one of the main circuits for carnaval started. After getting acquainted with the place (and getting a free upgrade as they gave us a twin room instead of a double) Andrew, Puja and I walked the streets of Bahia checking out the carnaval preparations. When we returned to the hotel we met lots of other travellers in the lobby. After hanging out for a while it transpired that these guys were heading out tonight for the first night of carnaval. The party was starting. Andrew and I had to be a part of it!
The next 6 days of partying is hard to describe but a general rundown of carnaval in Salvador goes as follows. Basically carnaval here consists of a massive street party - the largest street party in the world, 2 million people, according to the guinness book of records. There are 3 circuits around the city, where the main roads are turned into the main procession areas and lined with stalls, bars and nightclubs. Large trucks called Trio Electricos drive slowly down these designated streets with a famous singer and/or band performing on top.
To be part of the carnaval action you have three options:
1) Blocos: this is where you follow an individual truck (artist) down the street in a special roped off area at the base of the truck. You are given a special tshirt (your ticket effectively) which gives you permission to dance within the ropes.
2) Camarotes: for these you buy a tshirt which allows you entry to one of the nightclubs that line the main procession street. These nightclubs are constructed so they have a large balcony at the same height as the passing truck. The music truck normally stops for a couple of minutes in front of the major camarotes so you get a view of the artist. Camarotes allow you to see all of the trucks for that night's procession and also include free food and drinks.
3) Popcorn: basically means you are in the street dancing, following trucks if you want to (but not within the roped area) and generally partying like crazy. It is called popcorn because from above the crowds of people jumping and dancing look like corn popping.
The next 6 days for Andrew and I included 2 blocos, a band called Timbalada and a singer called Claudia Leite, one large camarote called Oceania and a night of popcorn. The experience is insane. You get pushed, shoved, drenched in beer, kissed by strangers, taught dance moves by the locals and see more than one punch-up or brawl. But it is an experience not to be missed. Once in a lifetime craziness and the most amazing fun.
DO IT!!!
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