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It is amazing just how coordinated I am. I had no idea how well I packed. I have this lovely plum color shirt that matches just the shade of the circles under my eyes.
Little tid bit: Croatia is at the same latitude as Portland OR but it is much warmer.
We drove from Split to Dubrovnik yesterday. It was like a 4 hour drive all along the coast most of the way. We got a ticket for driving without our lights on which is unfortunate. The police man stands on the side of the road and waves a miniature stop sign at us and that means pull over. He was actually really nice but made us pay 300 kuna for the "mistake" as he called it.
We got to Dubrovnik after hours in a cramped car and lots of singing and whistling from Sean. We had to drive all over town looking for a gas station that sold unleaded gas instead of diesel. We went to drop the car off and the rental station was closed. We called the agency because the sign posted said they were supposed to be open. They said to park the car and drop the keys off in the restaurant next door. Then this older man comes up to us and asks us if we need a sobe (a place to stay) he won't leave us alone so we say we will come look at his place. He drives us to his place and we meet his wife but it is so far from the old town so we say no. He was very upset and I felt like I was taking away a months worth of food so I gave him 20 Kuna and we left. It was heart breaking.
We took our bags and walked back to town. We were looking for a phone and trying to call places Rick Steves recommends but no place was open so we are wandering the streets in the general direction of the old town center and knocking on doors asking if they have room for 3 people and if we can see the room and how much it costs. We can't find a place at first but finally find one. So I know what you are thinking. That is kind of strange knocking on strangers doors asking about staying with them and your right... it is weird. BUT that is how it is done here. Sobes are everywhere there are little signs for sobe/apartmen with a little bed under them. They are much more affordable than hotels and the standard sleep accommodation in Croatia. Our host is a very kind and lovely older single woman. She gave us orange juice and biscuits.
So our Sobe is right above the steps that lead to the old town which is kind of a fortress with walls surrounding the city. We walk down to the main walkway and there are all these little ally ways with stairs that look kind of dark but there are lively pubs and if you ascend the stairs there are full walkways with restaurants one after another. We sit down and order and a small kitten jumps into my lap. I held it all through dinner and it fell right to sleep. I have not bought a single souvenir but if I had a way I would have given that cat shots ad a passport and sent it home. I loved that cat. So there are wild cats all over the place. Marci would hate it.
This morning we woke up and we walk out the front of our Sobe and the view is spectacular with a huge tower of the city wall right in front of us and an expansive view of the Adriatic and Croatian Islands. We walk down a huge flight of stairs and have breakfast in the old town and then pay 50 Euro to walk the walls. Before I talk about that it is important to talk about the stone.
I mentioned it yesterday in the palace but several years ago I went to visit Shoshie in L.A and we went to the Getty. I was so amazed by the travertine marble. Well if you have ever been there you know how cool it is...anyway now imagine an entire city made out of this cream colored marble. the stone is so smooth and shiny it looks wet and it is actually quite slippery. In the old town all the shops and apartments have doors and shutters that are painted hunter green to keep the town looking cohesive.
We go up the stairs to walk the wall. Now imagine the Great wall of China... I have never been but it is kind of like the same concept only surrounding the city of Dubrovnik. The view from all aspects of the wall are astonishing. You can look off to the ocean that is this amazing Lapis blue and in the shallows a jade turquoise. All of the city buildings have orange tile roofs. Now the war I wrote about yesterday actually ended in 1998 because there was a cease fire from 91 to 95 and then the Croatian army reclaimed parts of Croatia in 1995. Dubrovnik took the biggest hit and although they rebuilt quickly you can see morter shell holes in the building and the the biggest telling sign is the difference between the new tile roofs versus the old faded ones. You can't really tell there was recent war unless you look fairly closely.
The weather was cool in the morning with high winds but clear and bright. Early afternoon was quite warm and the winds died down. After the hour and a half walk at the top of the wall we went down and had ice cream in this little alley way shop. It was really good.
We went back to our little apartment and our host let us do a load of laundry and we then hung it out to dry in the warm afternoon sun. You seen laundry hanging from windows everywhere around the city. It is quite funny to see everyones underwear flapping in the breeze but it is the norm here and very efficient.
We went for a walk through old streets and there was a sign for a cafe on the water through a couple of passage ways. We found this little gem. If you walked through this narrow opening in the wall and down stairs past the cafe you come upon rocks and the lapping Adriatic is at your feet. We did not have our bathing suits but we rolled up our pants and stuck our feet in. Funny thing is there are no waves anywhere. It is quite bizarre. This city by the sea is breathtaking and quite lovely. We met a couple from Mexico and a family from Kenya. We have met people from all over the world. Many people have said they prefer Croatia to Italy. Less people just as beautiful. I wouldn't know but I have enjoyed it here.
We have tomorrow morning and early afternoon to enjoy Dubrovnik before we get on a plane for London and then directly to the Netherlands. I have a feeling it is back to some overcast skies but I have enjoyed the sunshine.
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