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Once Robin has peeled off his wetsuit and we're back on solid ground, we continue our long drive, the goal being just beyond Christchurch to Taitapu. It's been a long day - over 270 kms and a swim. Our lodge for the next two nights is Otahuna, NZ's largest private house, built by a Victorian era Anglo-New Zealander. After various incarnations, the property has thankfully come into the ownership of two former New Yorkers, Miles and Hall. (It turns out that Miles grew up in West Newbury, MA—another small world coincidence.) They have turned Otahuna back into the grand home it once was, with just seven guest suites, exquisitely decorated. Their idea was to make guests feel like they've been invited to an old-fashioned weekend country house party—and they have done it brilliantly.
Because we arrived too late for pre-dinner drinks with the other guests, they set up a separate table for us so we could sit down to our meal when we were ready. They provide a 5 course dinner, with NZ fine wines, each night for their guests, prepared by their chef, Jimmy McIntyre, who is able to choose the freshest vegetables from their own walled garden, and forages for mushrooms in the nearby woods. (They also raise their own pigs and lamb.) Our dinner that night was lovely, with a private table set up in the library—how perfect. A round table, lit candles, crisp linens, a delicious dinner start to finish, with friendly yet discreet service—I would gladly stay here indefinitely. Our suite on the ground floor opens out onto the herb garden.
Saturday, nothing special planned so we go into Christchurch as our host suggested we check out the Flower festival at the Cathedral, which is in the centre of town. The festival is an annual event in which the local floral societies and various groups make arrangements that are displayed in the Cathedral, all depicting a particular theme. This year the theme was water, and how precious this resource is to everyone. The most spectacular presentation extends the entire length of the cathedral's central aisle, with a river, made of glass pieces, snaking its way down the aisle, surrounded by plots in various colour blocks, each of which is composed of a vast array of plants, flower, seed heads, leaves and other parts of plants. The blocks of colour flowed one into the next, and the entire display is unlike anything we've seen, even at the Chelsea Flower Show. Quite, quite beautiful. And while we were there, several women were busy, on hands and knees, replacing various plants or flower heads that were past their best—we assume they are constantly replacing to make sure it always looks its freshest.
Then we went to have lunch at Lyttleton, the port town servicing Christchurch, the other side of a mountain and reached through a 4 kms tunnel. Amazing that this was carved out of the hill over 100 years ago. A light café lunch (keeping in mind our memories of last night's dinner) and a stroll up and down the hills reminiscent of San Francisco. Then back to Otahuna and a swim for Robin, a run for me. Miles gave us a tour around the orchards and vegetable gardens, as well as the apple shed now used for growing mushrooms. I was deeply envious of the enormous raised beds and central vine covered pergola. Beautifully maintained—and they don't get slugs! Their climate is relatively mild so they do two or even three plantings of some vegetables. Strawberries were particularly tasty.
A second dinner in this paradise, this time preceded by drinks with the other guests (American, British, Belgian) and then dinner together in the beautifully restored dining room. Lots of comparisons of places to visit and stay in New Zealand—so there's at least one safe topic for the table. One of the many thoughtful touches is they provide a copy of the menu, both food and wine, so we can be sure to remember which wines we might like to try again.
Sunday morning off early after a most delicious breakfast—almost forgot to mention it. They serve it informally in the kitchen-but what a kitchen. The kitchen of my dreams. Robin got nervous when I started taking notes (will share description with anyone who really wants it!). While they do make breakfast in this kitchen (eggs, porridge, crepes, etc) and coffee and tea, the real business of cooking dinners takes place in a typical professional kitchen behind the scenes, so to speak. We were both so sorry to leave, and this must be in the top few places I've ever stayed. Thank you, Miles and Hall…
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