Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
Day 49 - Mon 21/5
Rather than spend the day at Tekapo, we decided to head straight to Te Anau, in the fjordlands. So, another driving day. More jawdropping scenery. Views just kept getting better and better. Stopped for some photos at lake Dawson, set of beautifully by the mountain backdrop.
Day 50 -Tue 22/5
We took the easy (and expensive) option today and took a tour to Milford Sound rather than drive ourselves. Mighty glad we did as the road was long, windy and would have required every spare ounce of concentration.
We set off in a 16 seater coach with it guide, Simon at the helm. He turned itto be hugely informative, having worked in conservation projects locally for years. Sipped at several points on the way, including the "mirror pools".
The cruise on the Sound (actually a fjord) was incredible. Steep glacial cliffs, clear deep (300m) water and huge waterfalls. The highest was 160 metres, although it was dwarfed by the fjord itself.
On the way home we stopped at "the chasm" a short walk through temperate rainforest to a deep gorge formed by a narrow river. Brain very confused after 3 Weeks in the tropical forests of Oz, since this was clearly rainforest, but cold, with snowcapped mountains in the background.
Day 51 - Weds 23/5
Another sound trip, this time to Doubtful Sound. Again, scenery amazing and waterfalls even better due to overnight rain. Murky weather made for some great rainbows. Joined by some bottlenose dolphins for a few minutes. At one point the skipper turned off all the engines and generators so you can experience the sound of true wilderness - perfect silence apart from birdsong.
We returned via Lake Manapouri's underground power station, a real feat of engineering, some 200 metres below the lake.
Day 52 - Thurs 24/5
Driving day today. Through the Haast Pass with it's dramatic narrow bridge across the deep gorge and over the rapids below. Pressed on until we reached Fox Glacier, where we pitched up and booked a walking trip for the next day.
Day 53 - Fri 25/5
Took a trip to Lake Matheson, renowned for it's mirror-like qualities due to it's sheltered spot. Cloud and mist meant we didn't get the famed reflection of Mt Cook, but it was beautiful nevertheless.
The afternoon saw us head up into the hills for a trip onto Fox Glacier. Franz Joseph glacier more port less out of bounds due to instability. Got kitted up with boots and crampons at the shop, then set off. Really good guides, who gave us heaps of information about the glacier, its lifecycle and the valley it has left behind.
After walking for about 30 minutes we reached the face of the glacier. We skirted around this and then clambered to the edge of the ice partway up the side where it is stable. Once we had stopped to put on crampons and grab walking poles, we trekked into the ice. The guides cut fresh steps into the ice each day, so it was fairly easy going, but you really had to make sure the spikes on the crampon had bitten the ice before transferring your weight to that foot.
We spent a good couple of hours on the ice. Got to go down inside a moulin (natural drainage hole in the ice) and into a couple of crevasses. The colours of the ice were stunning and where it had green sculpted by the elements it is truly spectacular. Like being inside luminous blue glass. An unforgettable experience.
Finished off the day with a delicious meal in town.
Day 54 - Sat 26/5
Started the journey back across the mountains to the easy coast. Stopped on the way to see the famous "pancake rocks" and blowholes at Pounanaki. Got there just in time for high tide and some good blowhole action! Finally reached Hanmer Springs and went for a relaxing soak in the thermal pools.
Day 55 - Sun 27/5
Took the scenic route to Kaikoura, taking in the "cathedral cliffs" at Gore Bay. Not the best weather for sightseeing, but impressive anyway.
Got to Kaikoura and booked a whale watching trip for the next day, then went for a wall along the peninsula. Great views from the top, with the bonus of being able to get up close to a seal colony on the shore (not too close though, they bite, but more importantly they stink!)
Made use of the hot tubs at the camp site. Another clear starry night. Wind got up to gale force during the night. Beginning to wonder if the boat trip tomorrow will be able to go ahead.
- comments