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Roaminallover-Here, There and Everywhere
Arriving on the overnight sleeper train from Yangon. We arrived shaken AND stirred, just like the ubiquitous martini. The train was the bumpiest train either of us had ever been on, which made for an interesting time when nature called. There was just no way you could keep your bottom fixed to the seat, and you had to time pulling up your underwear with exact precision to avoid being thrown headlong into the metal wall surrounding the toilet area. I was certainly glad we were able to lie down most of the way. It's just a pity you can't lose weight through being bounced around. I'd be down to about eight stone by now if that was the case. The "train legs" lasted for at least 24 hours after we arrived. Anyway despite our wobbly legs we managed to find our hotel this time without a taxi. As the city is laid out on a grid system it's pretty easy to figure out whether you are heading in the right direction. The town has a different feel to Yangon. There are mopeds here for a start so lots of noise, and extra hazards when crossing the road- especially at night as many of them don't use headlights. In addition the local temples seem intent on broadcasting all sorts of noise at all hours of the day and night, and to make sure you hear they utilise loudspeakers on top of the building. Some buildings look new, made of brick, with modern designs, others utilitarian boxes, or makeshift shelters. The town has lots of trees, but surprisingly few palms. There is even a reduction in the number of crows here. Overall this gives a very different sound. As usual we have been exploring the area largely on foot. The town has a large moat surrounding an area which houses the Royal Palace, so on day one we managed to walk half way round that before climbing up over 7000 steps through numerous Buddist shrines en route (in bare feet I have to add, as that's what you have to do) to reach the top of Mandalay Hill. I have to admit we were under awed when we reached the top- partly because we were both complaining about the colour of our feet. Neither of us really understand the reasoning when the steps are already so dirty, and no one seems to think it's important to clean them. John seems to think it's something the monks could do. He already has an anti monk attitude following his encounter on the Kanchanaburi- Ayutthaya bus in Thailand. We'd sat down on the bus at the station, pleased that we were able to sit close to our bags at the back of the bus, when two monks climbed on. The older one gestured to John to get up from his seat, so he could sit down. As the rest of the bus was virtually empty you can imagine how John was as "angry as a wasp" Since then he's been anti Monks. I have to admit we're both a bit puzzled by the whole thing as we understood monks gave up all worldly goods to pursue a life of abstinence etc etc. The monks here seem to have mobile phones and cigarettes so I'm not sure they are giving up a great deal except maybe a few lie in, to go round for alms (donations of free food). Anyway back to Mandalay- we've been able to get out of the town today, taking a taxi to U Bain bridge at Amarapura. Apparently it's the longest Teak bridge in the world. We had a great time there watching the locals swimming for fish, as well as casting small nets from the shore and catching them that way. The water level was low due to the time of year so we were able to see the crops being tended on the land uncovered by the receding Taungthaman lake. We managed to walk all the way across although there were a few loose boards to negotiate, and found a little lakeside cafe for a bite of lunch. We'd given the deep fried rat the go-by on the way across the bridge, in the same way we'd gone without the deep fried sparrow on the train. There's just no point when there's not much meat! At least that's my excuse. Instead I settled for a portion of pickled tea leaves salad and coconut juice- both of which turned out to be very pleasant. We left Mandalay after our three night sojourn, using the boat to take us to our next destination Bagan.
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Cylla Always good fun to read your blog, brightened up a very dull Monday morning! Think the monks are making up the rules as they go along.....! Cylla xx