The start of our drive along the aptly named Wild Atlantic Way. With a few helpful tips from the cab driver on the way to pick up our hire car, and what I hope is our good share of Irish Luck, we were off out of Dublin and heading 250kms south to Kinsale, a small coastal town just a leprechaun’s leap from Cork.

Our first stop was at the ancient seat of the Irish Overkings of Munster, known as the Rock of Cashel. This 4th century fortress occupied an important place in the successive dynasties of the Overkings and with the arrival of St Patrick, it eventually morphed into a massive cathedral and remained as such until the English Parliament organised its almost complete destruction during the Irish Confederate War in 1647. Perched high on a rocky hilltop dominating all around it for as far as the eye can see, it certainly must have made its presence felt in its day.

Then it was back on the road and after a brief difference of opinion between the GPS and the navigator, we arrived in Cahir and found the perfect spot for lunch. Then a 90km experience of country lane driving and we arrived in Cohn, the embarkation point of the Titanic. Thankfully we didn’t suffer the same fate and we pressed on to our final destination of Kinsale where we will stay for a couple of days.

Two nights and two great evening meals with a long walk and a bit of exploring in between, then it’s up and away for our next leg to Kenmare, a small town on the southern coast. Of course there were some stops to be made along the way and Mizen Head was the first to see the old trans Atlantic signal station, now a maritime museum. Perched 60m atop a rocky outcrop, it could be reached ( by some) by descending a winding path cut perilously into the cliff face from the visitor’s centre, itself at least 100m+ above sea level and then across a foot bridge spanning a yawning chasm 45m above the sea and separating the rocky outcrop from the mainland. The ascent was no better, 99 concrete steps straight up the cliff face.
We were very fortunate in that the weather was perfect, no wind and quite warm. There was barely a wave on the Atlantic, just a gentle swell.

After that little bit of excitement, it was off to Castletownbere, (pronounced “Cast_let_own_ber”) and once again we found a nice little niche for lunch, this time in Mac Carthys pub, circa 1860, where the potato and leek soup did the job.

Driving from Kinsale to Kenmare along the coast was nothing short of spectacular. The vibrant greenfields and tree lined lanes were interspersed with purple and white Rhododendrons, all in full bloom, some 2-3 metres high, and bright yellow iris growing wild, fringing the side of the road.
Lush green fields with black faces sheep among the bright yellow flowers of wild gorse. Then, all that gradually morphed into towering mountains of grey stone. Around a corner and once again, the Atlantic coast rose into view, open sea or quiet inlets and estuaries. A truly spectacular day.
Now it’s off to see what’s on the menu for dinner and tomorrow it’s the Ring of Derry.