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Satin Shoes Go Camping
Right. Here goes kids - one final push and I might just manage to get myself up-to-date having been struggling to keep up with myself for the duration of this trip, and now it's about to end!
We left the wetlands in northern Argie and were heading up to Puerto Iguazu to see the waterfalls...only problem was that following a few days of rain, the main road out of Carlos Pellegrini mostly resembled a swamp, only fit for mudfighting. So we backed up and took another route, basically driving in a rather large loop and adding several hours to our journey. Needless to say, we didn't reach Iguazu that night and had to do another random camp in the middle of nowhere: this one now known as "Forestcamp".
Spent a whole day at Iguazu the next day...water levels were low, but the falls are spectacular nonetheless. These are the biggest falls in the world (widest? Biggest number of falls all together?) but it is their beauty and setting that make them special; rainbows every which way and gorgeous lush forestry and butterflies. It really is quite something...the water that flows into the falls just seems to sit, almost motionless on this huge "shelf", before cascading down and appearing to be of an impossibly large volume, and it does make an incredible noise.
We saw the Brazilian side of the falls the next day (following a border crossing that didn't even check my blasted yellow fever certificate, costing approx forty squid) and am so glad I decided to head into Brazil instead of just staying in Argentina. The Brazilians own a much smalller peprcentage of the falls than the Argies, but you get the best views of that side from Foz in Brazil. Hoards of tourists, mind (including many women in highly unsuitable footwear...the platform sandal is the trail-hiking shoe of choice it seems, for the hair-extended Brazilian babe), but still a wonderful couple of days. Especially going out to a super-cheesy show that night in Foz - all-you-can-eat buffet and packed with Saga Holiday types and watching seedy/comedy dance performances from all over the continent, including the obligatory ladies in sparkly thongs from Brazil...ooh, and the Brazilian male dancers who do the martial arty thing that's on the BBC ad (you know, two guys in white trousers on a roof somewhere doing cartwheely things); they were amazing.
Got suitable hammered on Caipirinhas that night and following a spectacular 3 hours of sleep staggered onto the truck for another long drive day during which the truck's illnesses were extended (dodgy battery, dodgy alternator, dodgy gearbox, leaky radiator) but arrived safely at another wildcamp destination, which, following in recent tradition, has been christened "Rockcamp", given that the pegs wouldn't go into the ground and had to sleep with large hard lump under my back.
Arrived at the seaside for another random camp before finally reaching the gorgeous little seaside town of Paraty, all quaint little cobbled streets (makes Durham's cobbles look as smooth as silk) and whitewashed houses with brightly painted shutters. We did a day trip on a boat out to some of the outlying islands and just had an idyllic time basking in the sun. I knew Brazil was famous for its beaches, but somehow I wasn't quite expecting this...lots of little, jungly, James Bondesque islands dotted along a turquoise coastline...lovely jubbly. Especially when you're sunbathing on deck sipping pink Champagne...
Went out one night in Paraty where the town was staging celebrations for the Feste de Santa Rita (patron saint of the W.I.?) and we ended up moshing to the eclectic sounds of a grungy girl band whose repertoire included Guns&Roses, followed by Simon&Garfunkel and most of the Beatles's red album (know how much you love that, Joe) and other delights such as "The Final Countdown". Is quite a novelty, being the only ones in the crowd who can sing along because they know the words in English...
And now, after our last ever day in the truck, here I am in Rio...hurrah! About to go out for dinner soon, but looking forward to sampling the delights of this city. Then off I go on my own again back to Argentina...think will try to fly there, despite the rather astronomical cost, as taking the bus would take a staggering 44 hours, and I only have 3 weeks left here. Am probs going to meet up with a friend I made in India who has just moved to BA for a while, then there are plans to head back towards wine country and even for a spot of skiing (YAY! Double yay!)...will hopefully be able to keep you updated more frequently as will have more free time cos am by myself, and gosh, will not be camping anymore! Will be in civilisation! In actual rooms! With bathrooms! Will miss dear little Anaconda (tent from La Paz to Rio) but am so loving the thought of showers two days on the trot no longer being a novelty.
Heaps of love to all, hope the weather is still spankingly lovely in Blightly; I no longer begrudge you warmth now that am in Brazil. All good. Heaps of love, promise to do individual emails soon. Off to get rip-roaringly drunk now and try out my simply awful Portuguese...
Cakes xxx
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