Hong Kong (Fragrant Harbour)

A little bit about its history first. Initially formed as a typhoon sanctuary by fishermen from further along the coast, Hong Kong prospered as a literal 'port in the storm' . Growing constantly from them on, Hong Kong became a British colony during the spread of the empire, and though it is politically capitalist, it is due to be rightly returned to China (As a point you'll need a separate visa to go between Hong Kong and Mainland China). It's certainly one to keep an eye on economic and politically.

From my point of view, Hong Kong has a peculiar mix of old and new. Similar to European cities such as London, Paris, etc. Rustic old markets compete with modern, flash arcades and are pitched between tall slender sky rise apartments and offices or hidden under large by-passes or within tunnels and city alcoves. Steeped in history and mysticism, Hong Kong is a classic city of romance, though far more exotic (and humid) than the ones I'm used to in and around jolly old Blighty.

Something I look for in a good city (much like cheese and wine - ?) is vintage, history, clout and spirit. Hong Kong, by my standards, had plenty of all. As a boy grown in the valleys of South Wales, any deviation to the normal and expected is in the spirit of travel. Therefore Hong Kong was an incredible induction to the world beyond Wales and Europe.

A hidden art in shopping:

My first cognitive sensation, something all travellers mention in passing but never seem to truly appreciate, is the art of haggling, combining the arts of discussion (or arguing, depending on how polite you are) and shopping. I was lucky to visit the Jade Market in Yau Ma Tei, a traditionalist market deep within the city on Jade Street.

In these markets you are expected to exercise your ability to barter, and you can see why. Around 90% of the buzz and energy in the air is created by friction generated by the polite social duel of bartering. And it's expected! It's part of the charm, it's etiquette to get a lower price. If you try to haggle someone down from a price in Cardiff you're escorted out by security (maybe just me). However here, in the markets, it seemed to be common place and the feeling of freedom and energy of exercised egos generated an addictive atmosphere that, to me, makes these places the epitome of traditional trade.

Kowloon: Neon Jungle

Hong Kong of course has a stark contrast to meet the Jade Market. Walking down the main streets of Kowloon you'll find yourself strolling under a commercial rainforest. In this illuminated backdrop every inch of space above your head is crowded with perpetually electrified neon: fighting for attention, like the flowers of the Amazon or Congo. And its not just the commercials, charismatic vendors sing siren songs of sweet sounding deals on clothing and jewellery, again an iconic image from old time markets that's lost in most young cities.

I think the oddest image I managed to come across in Kowloon was seeing bamboo scaffolding hugging a glass tower just down the street from where I was staying. As much as I appreciate the resourceful nature, I can't quite help to think how bamboo compares to steel - all I know is that it's definitely much more eco-friendly, and it seemed to be doing the job.

Stanley Market

Along with the Jade Market I visited Stanley Market. Another bustling hub of trade for those of us who're travelling on a tight budget. Stanley market is outdoors and coastal, compared to the Jade market, which is indoors and landlocked (honestly, there's a market for every taste). Stanley market was most likely my favourite of the two. It was filled with random alleys, twists and turns that led you on a Narnian adventure to the some mysterious corner shops hidden behind silk curtains and doorways of jade bead tendrils.

With what spare money I had, I indulged and bought a small polished mahogany jewellery box for the St. Christopher pendant my mother bought me before I left - I'm a touch superstitious at times.

I can't stress the beauty and appeal of these markets. They obviously come with the cautions every market place has, but you can't really beat the community spirit that thrives in a market place where each vendor knows and trades with neighbours; music bounces about and fights for control of a suserration; and incredible colour intimidates shadows. it's just incredibly festive and invigorating.

Difference in Twins

As a spiritualist (of sorts), I believe both Stanley and Jade Market have a different energy to them. It might have been as subtle as one was uncovered and the other wasn't, but that was enough for me to give Stanley and Jade their own separate bits of this blog entry. So thus they must have some defining qualities that overwhelmed my memories as an amateur traveller. One other thing I should point out that might be a clincher; I also managed to buy a Mandrin stamp with my name etched into it (I'll make good use of that come Christmas). Of course I should point out that while I was in Stanley Market I didn't see much haggling occurring, so it really depends on whether or not you want to test your mettle with the social duel of bartering. Though it's well worth it!

Aberdeen Bay

Now if a city had a heart, I'd suggest looking for Hong Kong's at Aberdeen Bay. It is the only city I've been to, or heard of, with this set up. modern motorised junk (a sort of compact barge) play home to many people in a floating neighbourhood against the glass and steel contrast of Hong Kong's towers. Concord in chaos comes to mind when you see the people relaxing at the stern porches while water taxi's chug past and the sound of traffic and industry blaze at the banks. The centre piece of this iconic part of Hong Kong is the floating restaurant, a monumental building in the centre that sits happily amongst the potentially polymorphous neighbourhood. I didn't manage to get to the restaurant, but did get a nice tour of the neighbourhood, something which stands alone in any tour of Hong Kong. It is peculiar to think of how people make a living in such a way: but as far as I'm concerned it just goes to show that creativity and the innovative nature of mankind will always endeavour. Similar to how they turned the frozen Thames into a festival ground back in London's heyday (Imagine Glastonbury on the Thames? Aberdeen's not that insane.)

Big Buddha - It's more awesome than you may think!

Last thing to review before I rest the fingers is the big Buddha. Now, I've probably stated that Aberdeen Harbour, Kowloon, Jade and Stanly Market are all the centre pieces of Hong Kong that you must see: however, the big Buddha statue is what welcomes you to the city as you fly in. Like Sydney's Oprah House or Lady Liberty facing the cold Atlantic with a torch and stalwart constitution, Buddha watches over the calm on the outskirts of Hong Kong. Big Buddha is iconic, in fact he's my chosen picture for this blog (provided it loads up well). He meditates upon the crest of a tall hill isolated by reserves, only a cable car from Tung Chung station to Po Lin monastery and a very pleasant walk from the station to the ascension that leads you to the master of enlightenment. It is a very heartening experience just to reach the statue from the city, the views are spectacular from the cable car and the Po Lin monastery seems to welcome tourists happily. If ever you choose to visit Hong Kong, and the hustle and bustle of a famous city overcome you, Buddha will always look upon you with peace and a settling sense of isolation and respect that I've not found in a any other city monument to date.

Now again, as I said; I love mysticism and any form of mythology and religion (though of course I don't take sides) and this includes all faces of the zodiac. Between the monastery and the stairway to Buddha is a lengthy concourse with the generals of the eastern Zodiac, another architecturally beautiful spot to walk along and report to your own mystic general. Nearby is also the path of wisdom - I didn't get to see it (Unhappy face!)

Ultimately, if the bartering, neon lights, constant flow of commerce and continuous hum of a very prosperous and industrious city get too much: I think a trip to Buddha, a monument gifted unto Hong Kong, is well worth a visit - if only to get a photo of a 100ft tall Buddha statue.

Conclusions and confessions:

Visiting a country so juxtaposed and so similar to your motherland is such a stretch for the soul. Similar to seeing somewhere so familiar, or somewhere so alien. It is the unequivocal bridge between the surreal and real, western and eastern. Rarely do cities such as Hong Kong come into existence, spanning the void between the constantly renewing western culture and the traditional eastern culture. But it is always welcoming to see that pallets can mix as beautifully and inspirationally as this.

When you get there, enjoy every bit of it! It's well worth it.

P.S. - don't be afraid

Oh, by the way guys: if you're like me and afraid of getting lost and alienated, the people of Hong Kong, as most Asian realms are known for, were very friendly and understanding. My experience was as followed:

On my way back from the Buddha statue, in a vane attempt to prove independence, I managed to loose myself between the station in Tung Chung to Kowloon. There are English translations to lead you around, but none the less for an incredible amateur such as myself the whole experience overwhelmed me (and beyond this blog I shan't admit I almost broke into tears). Oddly enough a civilian empathised my blight and pointed me in the right direction, helping me get a ticket and pointing me to the right platform, despite the fact neither of us could speak intelligible English (bare in mind I'm welsh). An act of kindness that will always stick with me and sing the praises of Hong Kong and it's people. Truly a city to love. Just for goodness sake, ease yourself in, it gets so humid!.

Oh, also a girl in the cable car told me I had a 'regal' nose...? read into that as you will.

Anyway, enjoy Hong Kong! It's a fabulous marriage of exotic and traditional, old and new, and don't be afraid, if I can do it - anyone can. - honestly!

P.S:

If you see more than I did: don't tell me, I'll only get jealous! :)

Safe travels cariad!

Reesey-reese